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My friends and I were in the courtyard of a restaurant in the sleepy Oaxacan town of Zimatlan de Alvarez, on a lip-burning two-week trip to get to the heart of Mexican chiles.

Mexico cityDistrito federalLa escuelaVeracruz llaveJuan joseEl tajinZimatlan de alvarezPorfirio diazJuana amaya hernandezMartha soledadXhobe humoy salGastronomia mexicanaMi tierra lindaLeopoldo ramirezPanaderia el resobadoJessica andrade