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My Grandfather Fled the Nazis. I Moved to His Old Neighborhood


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We arrived in Amsterdam a year ago, making our way alone off the eerily uncrowded Boeing Dreamliner we’d ridden from Atlanta. Getting as far as Schiphol felt like an accomplishment. At the check-in counter in Houston, my husband’s U.S. passport had been rejected. “He doesn’t have a visa,” the unmasked Delta staffer said. “No Americans allowed into Schengen without a visa.” This was a repatriation flight, she explained, only for European citizens and residents.
We’d considered this contingency, though only really Stage One of it. What if my husband the only non-European among us weren’t allowed on the plane? Would we leave without him? If we stayed, where would we go, and for how long? ....

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