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Chasing bin Laden's ghost (and rabbits) in Pakistan


Thursday
29 April 2021
Paris - It was THE phone call with THE news I d been waiting for for years. It was May 2, 2011 in Islamabad, and very early in the morning. I was in bed and half asleep. On the end of the line was Jennie Matthew, news editor in the bureau, as terse as usual: Washington is about to announce they ve killed bin Laden in Pakistan.
This was it. I d been waiting for this day for six years, since reporting from Afghanistan in 2005. The question of what happened to Osama bin Laden, following his 2001 escape under US bombardment, coloured every NATO briefing. Many believed he was hiding across the border, in Pakistan s mountainous and semi-autonomous tribal belt, where the Americans didn t send ground troops, but instead waged their war from the sky, by drones. ....

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The past we step into


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Lotte (left), Sonja, and Ursula in sailor suits made by their mother (Photo courtesy of Sonja Cowan)
The past we step into
Berlin - Sonja came into my life by happy coincidence, right in the middle of the pandemic. The message came, as so often in this hyperconnected year of physical isolation, in the form of a tweet. 
The author of the message, Benjamin Preiss, was an Australian fellow journalist who had come across a blog post about my walk to work in Berlin.I had written it in January 2017, an unsettling time for me as an American after a deeply divisive election campaign had led to the inauguration of Donald Trump. Benjamin wrote:  ....

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Baghdad: forever on the brink


Baghdad - Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. It goes like this. An Indian shaman visited Baghdad in the 1990s, when Iraq was suffocating under international sanctions targeting then-dictator, Saddam Hussein. He tried to convince a group of Iraqis that magic was real and that he could control it. 
But an Iraqi soldier, who had survived both the Iran-Iraq war and the 1990 invasion of Kuwait, wasn t convinced.
“What do you call an entire family who lives a month on a government salary worth one dollar?” he asked.
“That’s real magic,” the Indian reluctantly replied.
That’s Iraq. A country that lives on the magic of its people, on their mystifying capacity to survive miseries flung at them over the last 1,400 years.  I myself witnessed only the last few years, landing in Baghdad in 2017 to take up a post as Arabic correspondent for Agence France-Presse. ....

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