NEW YORK STATE legalized recreational marijuana on March 31, 2021. Soon after, taco-truck-style weed vendors began turning up on street corners around Manhattan. Soon after that, brick-and-mortar dispensaries began popping up all over the city. Some brazenly branded themselves with spiky green seven-leaved rosettes; others attempted to be discreet, since, if you wanted to be a stickler about it, their business was illegal. One shop near my house went to the trouble of calling itself a “concierge club” and adopted a streamlined aesthetic between high-end sneaker shop and Apple Store. Within