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How White Purveyors Came to Dominate the Fermented Foods Industry


The first time I tasted kombucha was in 2010, at a Whole Foods in San Francisco. As I drank the ice-cold bottle of GT’s Multi-Green, I was surprised by how familiar it was: Its sharpness reminded me of long-fermented Taiwanese fruit vinegars and suan cai, while its funk called to mind the diverse array of ferments, such as furu, tempe, belachan, and doubanjiang, that flavored my ’80s Malaysian childhood.
After I immigrated to Australia in the ’90s, my white friends mocked these ferments as “smelly,” “gross,” and “weird.” But 20 years later, the large refrigerated probiotic beverage section at Whole Foods was dominated by a funky drink, covered with psychedelic labels and buzzwords like “rejuvenate,” “restore,” and “regenerate.” And just as I’ve seen the popularity of kombucha continue to grow, I’ve watched as many of the once-ridiculed ferments of my childhood have been declared not just acceptable, but trendy by white people eager to festish ....

New York , United States , San Francisco , Jawa Tengah , South Korea , Gwyneth Paltrow , David Lebovitz , Kombucha Kamp , Kalaaleq Inuk , Shoku Iku , Los Angeles , Brad Leone , Yoko Nakazawa , Saeko Iida , Kaori Takahashi , Tamara King , David Chang , Hiroshi Sugihara , George Thomas Dave , Kyoko Inoue , Chae Jeong Eun , Alison Roman , Aviaja Lyberth Hauptmann , Sandor Katz , Sally Fallon Morell , Jessica Wang ,