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Photograph: Mark Reid
This 17th-century inn stands right beside the historic bridge across the Cover, near its confluence with the Ure in lower Wensleydale. There has been a river crossing here since perhaps Roman times. At one time, the main stagecoach route from London to Richmond, North Yorkshire came this way, as did drovers’ roads across the dales and hills. This traditional pub continues to thrive and oozes character, with an inglenook fireplace, beamed ceilings and wooden settles; it is famed for its ham and eggs, and generous portions. Outside, the attractive beer garden leads to the banks of the Cover, said to be the haunt of a “kelpie”: from the turbulent waters this horse-like creature from Celtic folklore lures the unwary into riding on its back, only to disappear beneath the waters with its victim. ....

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