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Alamy The white wines of Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune are considered by many to be the greatest whites in the world. The most famous of these come from the villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Meursault. Worldwide demand makes these wines very expensive; any entry-level village Puligny from a famous maker will sell for more than a hundred dollars, and the grand crus can cost five or 10 times as much. But there are less exalted villages in Burgundy producing excellent chardonnays. (Don’t call them chardonnays in Burgundy or you’ll get dirty looks. Place trumps grape in France. Grapes are just delivery systems for the taste of a specific site what the French call terroir.) My favorite of these villages is Saint-Aubin, which in recent years has been emerging from obscurity thanks to the efforts of some of Burgundy’s top white winemakers. It is one of 70 villages in France named after a 6th-century bishop known for his generosity to widows and ....