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Great seafood, cool white wine, expert cookery in a refreshing space⦠whatâs not to love? âRunning on well-oiled tracksâ: Bentleyâs Oyster Bar & Grill. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer âRunning on well-oiled tracksâ: Bentleyâs Oyster Bar & Grill. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer Sun 2 May 2021 01.00 EDT Bentleyâs Oyster Bar & Grill, 11-15 Swallow Street, London W1B 4DG (020 7734 4756). Starters £13.50-£24.50, mains £23.50-£56, desserts £8.75-£10.50, wines from £35.50 Looking up Swallow Street from a deserted Piccadilly, the current incarnation of Bentleyâs presents as a warm, glowing pool of light amid the darkness. As we get closer, we can hear a babble of voices. I want mine to be a part of that babble, a murmur of basso profundo to bottom out the high notes. Happily, thatâs about to happen. I have bagged a table and I did so courtesy of a cunning ruse. I texted the chef and ....