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Primed garret is towed into the wave. it pulled me up almost like slow motion. even i didn t realize it was going to be that big of a wave, something really felt different. to avoid getting eaten by the killer wave, garret needs to carefully choose the exact moment to let go of the rope. at the last second as long as possible i waited. because i m always trying to get in the barrel. so i waited until the last second and turned. and went up to get barrelled. and this big mountain of white water came, and it was like i don t know, something came from up top and landed on my shoulder. as i m going down, just the chops that are coming up the face are like moguls. like you re on a mountain of ice with moguls everywhere. it felt like a ton of bricks landed on me and kind of squashed me down. traveling at 70 miles an hour on his board with a wall of ....
Didn t know how powerful it was. then i made it. i did a little spin. all the guys rush over. garret is strolling nice and casually laughing and clapping. i m like, dead. she is sitting there exhausted. i go to hug her and she falls back. it may have ended nicole s big wave career. but it only wedded garret s appetite for more. a lot of people think i m crazy. and think everybody is comfortable in different situations. i am very comfortable in the ocean. i feel i belong out there and know what i m doing and i have a plan when it s big. there s something about him that i never worry about him when he s the water ever. even if he would have fallen on the wave, i would have known he was going to be okay because he always is. he not only rode that wave, a ....
Even though i didn t realize it was going to be that big of a wave, something really felt different. to avoid getting eaten by the killer wave, garret needs to carefully choose the exact moment to let go of the rope. at the last second as long as possible i waited. because i m always trying to get in the barrel. so i waited until the last second and turned. and went up to go get barrel and this big mountain of white water came. and it was like i don t know, something came from up top and landed on my shoulders. as i m going down, just the chops that are coming up the face are like moguls. like you re on a mountain of ice with moguls everywhere. it felt like a ton of bricks landed on me and kind of squashed me down. traveling at 70 miles an hour on his board with a wall of water coming down on him, this ride is touch and go. just when it seems like it can t get anymore treacherous. another mountain of white water came from behind, like a ....
I didn t. i went over the faums and in the video you can see my little head and my arms sticking out. so i eat it really bad. i got pounded. garret has only seconds to rescue her. i come up. i don t know where i m at. because i can t see the shore. i don t see the rocks. i done see a ski. i don t hear a ski. but he is forced to leave her to avoid getting pummeled by another wave himself. i had to go back and circle around. you can t go in. if you don t go in at the right time you ll miss him. everybody is like, yeah, but eventually you ll make it to the beach. you won t. i ve seen it suck people all the way down to the point before they re able to come in. it takes you to the impact zone where you get wave after wave. when she got close, i was like stand up! i hadn t gotten pounded so i ....
it pulled me up almost like slow motion. something really felt different. to avoid getting eaten by the killer wave, garret needs to carefully choose the exact moment to let go of the rope. at the last second as long as possible i waited. because i m always trying to get in the barrel. so i waited until the last second and turned. and this big mountain of white water came, and it was like i don t know, something came from up top and landed on my shoulder. as i m going down, just the chops that are coming up the face are like moguls. like you re on a mountain of ice with moguls everywhere. it felt like a ton of bricks landed on me and kind of squashed me down. traveling at 70 miles an hour on his board with a wall of water coming down on him, this ride is touch and go. ....