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Advertisement The boat was rocking as white-tipped waves slapped our hull before breaking on the rocky shore. Nothing unusual about that on a cruise, but the vast expanse of choppy water I had woken up on was not the sea. I d never felt this sort of motion on a river cruise before but this was one of the surprises during a voyage of adventure along the Lower Danube on the river s journey to the Black Sea. The Danube is a popular destination for river cruises, with dazzling capital cities Vienna and Budapest on its banks and pretty Cesky Krumlov and Salzburg within easy reach. Yet sailing east of Budapest, as the river makes its way through Serbia and forms the border between Bulgaria and Romania, takes you farther and farther off the beaten tourist track.

Black seaOceans generalSerbia generalLepenski virAbu simbelRomania generalBalkan mountainsCesky krumlovCaroline hendrieKing decebalusLower danubeGolubac fortressCarpathian mountainsIron gates gorgeRoman empireIron gates