Let these names roll around your mouth a moment: mumme, jopenbier, Peeterman, Cöpenicker Moll. Delicious, aren’t they? And yet the beers they designated don’t always sound equally so. Jopenbier, for example a specialty of Gdansk, Poland had an original gravity of near 1.200 (that’s not a typo), was spontaneously fermented, but was so poorly attenuated that it