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Give gavi a go – the workhorse wine that really shines


Araldica Valle Vento Organic Gavi, Italy 2019 (£13.99, Virgin Wines
) All supermarkets have a gavi and usually it’s a dry white that is slightly more interesting than the cheaper generic Italians – the cut-price soaves and pinot grigios – that sit alongside it. Sainsbury’s, Morrisons, Tesco, M&S, Asda… all have decent examples that will not let you down if you’re in the market for a wine to go with chicken roasted with lemon and a handful of herbs, grilled halloumi and roasted vegetables, or a simple fish dish. Many of those good gavi wines are the work of the reliable co-operative Araldica, which is also the name in the small print on many of the best own-label reds from the same northwestern Italian region as gavi: Piedmont. The gavi Araldica makes under its own Valle Vento label is a cut above, though: spotless, clean and lemon-grove scented. ....

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This bacon-laced, umami-rich Syrah is why I love wine from high-altitude California vineyards


This bacon-laced, umami-rich Syrah is why I love wine from high-altitude California vineyards
In the latest Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends Halcón s delicious $32 Syrah
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Welcome to
Wine of the Week, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she
every Wednesday.
Syrah is a meat lover’s wine. When made in a certain style, it can seem to approach the pinnacle of deep, savory, umami-packed flavors: bacon fat, black pepper, salumi, olives.
The trick of a truly great Syrah, though, is that it can balance those intense, meaty notes with bright, refreshing acidity (think of chimichurri sprinkled on a grilled ribeye) and more delicate, floral nuances. Syrah’s most famous iterations, from areas of France’s Northern Rhone Valley like Cote-Rotie, often mingle a heady black-pepper aroma with lavender and violets. ....

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