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Spoiled by lack of choice: the restaurant tasting menu takes off post-COVID David Matthews Photo: Joe Armao Neil Perry called it first. And if not first, at least loudest, stating with the closure of his original Rockpool in Sydney five years ago that hours-long, course-by-course tasting menus were done. A la carte dining was where it was at, he said, opening Eleven Bridge with a menu where (gasp) guests got to choose what they ate, then pay for it. Eleven Bridge didn t last, but where Perry led others followed. Take a spin around the country s biggest restaurant openings of the past 18 months, and a la carte is the name of the game: Woodcut at the Crown; Gimlet at Cavendish House; Mimi s by Merivale; the upcoming Society by the Lucas Group. ....