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In an exclusive serialised travel feature, we get behind the wheel with Alwynne Gwilt as she ventures off the well-worn asphalt of South Africa's 'Garden Route' in favour of exploring a little further afield, and her first stop is a restored nature reserve where there's magic in the air. "It's just so stunning," I exclaim, as we wind our way down a dusty road in the heartland of the Cederberg Mountains. "It's like nothing I've seen here before." It's my fifth trip to South Africa, and I've started to feel like more of a local in some ways. The world class vineyards and gastronomy, the spectacular coastline and its incredible wildlife, and the varied terrain perfect for all sorts of outdoor activities all make it one of my favourite countries in the world. But this is the first time I've ventured north to the wild Cederberg Mountains, named after a species of endangered cedar tree. It is a mere two and a half hour dr
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