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Castillo de Jagua on Rivington Street. Photo by Cynthia Lamb. The Cuban sandwich has been a neighborhood staple for decades. While Cuban expats in Florida take credit for its creation, Puerto Rican and Dominican diners and luncheonettes have been the bastions of this delicacy here. Variations have even made it to upscale menus, commanding a price of $14 or more. Fortunately great examples can still be found for $5. This is not a sandwich for calorie counters or the fat phobic. It is, like a cheeseburger, a brilliant, pedestrian indulgence. Start with a hero roll, preferably of Cuban style bread. Slather with mayo, or garlic mayo for even better effect. Stuff with sliced pernil (garlic and oregano scented roast pork shoulder), ham, Swiss cheese and dill pickle. Use a sandwich press to compact until the cheese has melted and it’s hot throughout. The result is heavy with salty meat, juicy with fat and bursting with flavor – the pickle valiantly struggling to be the foil ....