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“Haute Plates” has been a column in which I’ve related news about restaurants, written recipes and made comments on food culture generally. That has become problematic – particularly the part where I write about restaurants. There’s news, but it’s not good news for the most part and there are only so many ways to say “takeout” or “Yes, there are outdoor heaters.” Restaurants keep opening, though; for example, Bywater Brew Pub opened recently at Royal and Montegut streets in the eponymous neighborhood. They have an interesting menu. On paper it looks like hipster satire. There’s a burger called the “Royal with Cheese” that comes straight from the movie “Pulp Fiction,” and I don’t know how I feel about the “Phoritto,” which is a burrito with things that would otherwise be found in pho except for the soup. Some may say the soup is the essence of pho and given that pho is soup, I agree. It is not my gate to keep, th ....