cartilagenous things. oh, yeah. the whole head, really. the whole head. if you think about it. yeah. if pasta is the first pillar of roman food, the astonishing use of offal is definitely the second. somehow poor romans turned these unpromising cuts into sheer culinary poetry. yes. great. i love oxtail. i m so into it. so tasty. that s really good. and this is definitely a more carnivorous city than it is a fish city. without question. even though we re 15 miles from the sea i know. that was really, really far in pre-1970s standards before ice and refrigeration became more common. yeah, yeah. so this is that honeycomb tripe with all those really beautiful pockets. yeah.