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Way out west where ranchers’ mailboxes are 50-gallon drums set on their side, I drove northwest of Winnemucca on a straight-line course to Denio, Nevada. As I crossed into Oregon the only trees I saw .

United statesMalheur national wildlife refugeKiger gorgeSteens mountainEileen okeeffe mcvickerBruce babbittJohn helmerAndrew gullifordWilliam kittredgePeter frenchEd oliverFrenchglen hotel inBureau of land managementSteens mountain cooperative management protection areaNational register historic districtNational conservation lands