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Print In September, Jonathan Perez was settling his roving taquería, Macheen, into an open-ended residency focused on breakfast and lunch at Milpa Grille in Boyle Heights. While developing new menu ideas, he noticed that baristas Xuan Carlos Espinoza and Joel Espinoza (also set up long-term at Milpa Grille, their pop-up is called Cafe Cafe Mobile) were brewing pour-overs using beans farmed in Puebla, Mexico. Thinking about Puebla, Perez’s mind veered toward its most famous specialty, mole. Maybe he’d make one that incorporated coffee? The notion took form in his taco de pollo en mole blanco. Its white sauce may be neutral in appearance but in taste, it spins like a color wheel. Over the phone, Perez detailed the galaxy of ingredients: white chocolate, coffee, heavy cream, sunflower seeds, golden raisins, star anise, cinnamon, whole clove, peppercorns and, as thickeners, torn bolillo and animal crackers. ....