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Review: Ummo chef José Sosa explores inventive Italian, with octopus chicharrón, in River North

José Sosa might have cooked for you already. Even if you haven’t had a chance to visit his debut restaurant, which opened in August in the River North neighborhood of Chicago. The chef and partner describes his menu simply as contemporary Italian, but it’s more than that. Ummo is the surprising exploration of inventive dishes tempered by personal culture and chosen traditions. Sosa was most . ....

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