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Why port and madeira should always be drunk first, not last – and the best bottles to buy

Wrapping presents on a dark December afternoon? Reading a book by the fireside on a cold weekend? Making mince pies? All these activities are, at least in my view, much improved by the presence of a glass of port or madeira. Both these fortified wines have suffered cultural imprisonment. Stuck at the end of festive meals, they’ve acquired all the wrong sorts of associations – with overeating and anachronistic menus. ....

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