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Spencer developed a taste for port but expressions from California generally were one dimensional, in his opinion, made from international varieties such as zinfandel, petite sirah and cabernet sauvignon. So, Spencer grafted his vineyard over to five varieties native to Portugal’s Douro Valley with bud wood from the University of California, Davis, and sold the grapes to J.W. Morris Winery for its port program. In 1981, Spencer, who grew up on a dairy farm, found out J.W. Morris was going bankrupt and had no plan to pay him for the grapes, so he drove to the winery and took back two containers of young port wine. He drove with the containers to a friend’s winery in the foothills and bottled the wine under the family s name, St. Amant. ....

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