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A food delivery cyclist in Manhattan last month.
William Volcov/Shutterstock
When James Freeman opened his American comfort and Creole restaurant in Bushwick about a decade ago, he called it Sweet Science. The term refers to the art of boxing. Not surprisingly, Freeman’s ready with a boxing metaphor to describe the hit his restaurant took the past year of COVID-19.
“Man, it took an uppercut, a rope-a -dope, you know, some jabs to the side,” he says, his voice rising in excitement. “It s like, “Jimmy, Jimmy, how’s your ribs? Don’t touch your ribs!’”
The shutdown last March was especially painful because Sweet Science had never done any deliveries. It has a large, open dining space for more than 100 people and a horseshoe-shaped bar designed to encourage long nights hanging out with friends and neighbors. ....

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