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Listen • 4:48
Adán Medrano, chef and food writer, savors a beef cheek taco at Vera s Backyard Bar-B-Que in Texas Rio Grande Valley.
While the taco long ago conquered America, some aficionados believe this ancient, handheld food reaches its pinnacle in the Texas-Mexico borderlands.
A book out last year
American Tacos: A History of the Taco Trail North of the Border directs taco lovers to Brownsville, the southernmost city in Texas. Brownsville gets a bad rap in the national news because it s often the dateline for stories about border barriers and desperate migrants. But there s a
deliciosaside to this laidback city. Among the palm trees, ox-bow lakes and 19th century buildings, the adventurous foodie can discover where the humble taco has been, and where it s headed. ....

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