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December 16, 2020
The town of Los Alamos lies upon the slopes of a living supervolcano called the Valles Caldera, at a crisp High-Desert elevation of 7,300 feet above sea level. The modern town is barely a century old, but the nearby cliff villages were built more than a thousand years earlier by the Tewa, who carved homes into the caldera’s cliffs Bandelier Tuff, the chalky volcanic stuff is called, in honor of the archaeologist Adolph Bandelier’s work here in the late 1800s.
You can walk among these skull-eyed cliff dwellings preserved since 1916 within Bandelier National Monument and appreciate the then-novel approach of Bandelier, who combined “historical research, folklore, mythology, native traditions, ethnography, ethnohistory, and archaeology” in an early effort to remove European-American assumptions about New World culture, as so much more can be discovered with an open mind.
Interviewed by Conrad Knickerbocker
Firecrackers and whistles sounded the advent of the New Year of 1965 in St. Louis. Stripteasers ran from the bars in Gaslight Square to dance in the street when midnight came. Burroughs, who had watched television alone that night, was asleep in his room at the Chase Park Plaza Hotel, St. Louis’s most elegant.
At noon the next day he was ready for the interview. He wore a gray lightweight Brooks Brothers suit with a vest, a blue-striped shirt from Gibraltar cut in the English style, and a deep-blue tie with small white polka dots. His manner was not so much pedagogic as didactic or forensic. He might have been a senior partner in a private bank, charting the course of huge but anonymous fortunes. A friend of the interviewer, spotting Burroughs across the lobby, thought he was a British diplomat. At the age of fifty, he is trim; he performs a complex abdominal exercise daily and walks a good deal. His face carries no excess flesh. His expres