and there was a news flash on the tv screens there about a suspected terror attack on berlin's alexanderplatz. in the end, it was a false alarm. but i have to say that at the time, everyone looked distinctly nervous. not surprising since we'd actually stopp at alexanderplatz station when the headline flashed up. in london, meanwhile, one very different consequence of the french attacks, some of which were anti-semitic, is that increasing numbers of jewish people are leaving france, and moving to britain. we've been to meet a few of them to find out why. >> there are momnts when sabine zeitouni gets homesick for france. for example, when she's shopping. sabine moved to london from paris with her husband and three children last summer. she's a practicing jew, and says it's harder to find kosher supermarkets in the english capital. in paris, they were practically in front of her door. >> the kosher food, it's not far from the house because you can find kosher shop in all of quarter of paris. >> but sabine feels at home in london. she says her family feels safer here than they did in paris. the abhorrent terror attacks in the french capital last november confirmed her worst fears. sabine and her family decided to move to london half a year earlier, after the massacre at the office of the satirical magazine charlie hebdo and the killings in a jewish supermarket. >> when you are jewish in france, it is not good. you can't go outside with a kippah or a sign you are jewish. i am afraid to go in the street with my kids with their kippah on the head. my children haven't a future in paris. >> orthodox jews are just as visible as muslims on london's streets. the capital has a reputation for tolerance. and many french expats are attracted by the melting pot lifestyle. israeli-born moto carmelli's kosher cheese cake is a big seller in the mainly jewish area of golders green. >> the french have good patisserie, i know, but the french people say it is very nice here, give me compliment. we know what is going on in france. a lot of them come here, a lot go to israel. >> religious service on friday evening, the jewish sabbath. worshippers have their bags checked before entering the synagogue. security in central london is a serious issue. the jewish community here in st. john's wood is making a big effort to welcome newcomers. this year, they've arranged for the service to be held in english, hebrew and french. that makes service-goers like david feel at home. >> we have been very warmly welcomed in this community. it was a surprise for us that something would be organized in french, and that they hired a french rabbi. that is very nice. >> every two weeks, rabbi rene comes here especially from lyon to lead the service. france is not hell. >> it is very important to say this. people live, they are going to work, we talk with each other, we talk with the other communities. but i think we are still recovering from what happened in paris in january and november. >> david and his family moved from paris to london one and a half years ago. the pr expert is able to commute between the two capitals for his job, thanks to easy train connections. david thinks france has a habit of sweeping problems with anti-semitism under the carpet. he likes the way england has dealt with the matter in the past, like when citizens' initiatives prevented neo nazi demonstrations from taking place in jewish neighborhoods. >> the government cares a little bit more about it and take it at its roots. when there are problems, the police intervenes, the government intervenes, i think, from what i read, at an earlier stage than in france. >> fear of ring-wing extremists -- right wing extremists and the front national is driving many french jews to leave the country. a few of sabine zeitouni's friends have already sold their property just to be on the safe side should they feel the need to leave the country quickly. >> if the situation doesn't change, the extremists will grow in france. not in five years, but in 20 years. i don't know. and extremists are not good for the jewish. >> sabine has no regrets. she feels safer in london, and on top of that, her children will grow up bilingual, something which should help them in the future. holidays, though, are still spent in paris because there's really nothing like home. ♪ damien: now, to the next in our special series looking at the walls of europe. and today, we're off to ukraine. i can remember before the conflict in the east of the country broke out, ukrainian friends would often say how close they feel to russia. but since moscow's annexation of crimea, i don't think many of them would say that now. one particularly worrying aspect of the conflict has been how easily russia managed to infiltrate soldiers and weaponry into eastern ukraine. one idea to stop something similar happening again in other areas of the country has been to build what has been called a wall along ukraine's border with russia further north. in fact, it's more like a fence. and it's controversial as our correspondent in ukraine has been finding out. >> here in northern ukraine, on the frontier to russia, oleksandr dudko and his comrade are stationed at the senkivka border crossing. the border guards say this dugout might save lives one day. it's reminiscent of a trench in classical warfare. next to it is a two-meter high fence intended as a defense against an attack from russia. the officers are convinced the fence would serve its purpose. >> it's a shelter for civilians, so we can protect them in a grenade attack. >> across from the bunker we see openings where weapons can be fired. this border crossing looks like it's in the middle of a war. this is ukraine. over there is russia, and between them lies the crossing point that separates the two countries. ukraine looks ready to defend against an attack. the nearby customs clearance building is hardly being used. trade between ukraine and russia has nearly come to a standstill. instead, kiyv has already allocated tens of millions of euros to build the european wall as the fortified border is dubbed. >> we're defending our homeland here, but i think we are actually also defending the democratic world. >> remarks like that indicate that officer dudko supports a pro-european, pro-western stance for ukraine. but would the fences and anti-tank trenches really be able to hold back a russian advance? >> in any case, it would enable the soldiers of the border unit to hold back the attack for some time. if you're attacked, it's definitely better to be returning fire from a protected position like this one to meet than it is to go out and meet the enemy on an open field. >> over the next few years, the cost of the project is expected to run to hundreds of millions of euros. some of that money may come from the european union. [alarms] >> but three hours further to the south, here on the dnieper river, many doubt whether the mega-project actually makes sense. oleksandr radchuk represents the citizens' control initiative. he's been keeping an eye on the fortifications at senkivka. >> in principle, we can't really trace how the money has been used in the past two years. >> some suspect that corruption is playing a role in the project. >> considering the amount of money involved, i believe it would be better and far more efficient to put these funds into modernizing the ukrainian army. >> we're not the only ones wondering if the setup could stop an attack by neighboring russia. but while 800 kilometers to the east hostilities between pro-kiyv forces and pro-russian rebels continue, the construction work at the northern ukrainian border seems to be more about symbolism. border officer dudko takes us to the old soviet monument behind the checkpoint. it's nicknamed the three sisters. >> the construction was built by three former soviet republics together. >> the senkivka checkpoint leads not only to russia, but to neighboring belarus. the monument from the year 1975 once stood for the friendship between the three soviet republics and their people. does that friendship still exist? >> we have official contacts with the russian side, but there are no personal connections. >> oleksandr dudko isn't willing to say more than that. but he introduces us to someone who can tell us about how relations with russia have changed in this tri-border region, local mayor yuriy holovan. >> the bus station in front of the town hall dates back to the soviet era. across the street, traditional ukrainian farmhouses are still standing. but thestatue of lenin was recently toppled by members of the ultra-nationalist right sector party in the town. inside, holovan and the border guards discuss how ukrainian-russian relations have deteriorated. >> there once was really friendship between us at one time. but not any more. >> why? we want to know. >> how can there be friendship between two neighbors when one of them has attacked the other? >> the conflict in eastern ukraine has also spelled the end to old friendships here on ukraine's northern border. the new border fence seems to serve mainly as a symbol of the divisions between ukraine and russia. but the fence is unlikely to withstand a real tank assault. damien: one of the things i love about where i live in berlin is all the graffiti. often, it's real street art with quite a few works by famous urban artists like banksy. you can even take tours to see some of the best graffiti in the city. when the weather is cold and grey, it can really brighten things up. in one area of paris though, the authorities have decided to go one step further, and rather than fight the graffiti, they want to encourage it. ♪ >> the 13th arrondisement isn't one of paris' prettiest districts. it's a concrete jungle full of high-rises. but the district mayor believes that a splash of color can brighten up the grey walls and improve the area's reputation. >> today, the 13th has become one of the world's must-see neighborhoods for people who love street art. >> graffiti is not only legal here, it's even welcomed. the whole area has become a kind of open-air gallery. ♪ >> graffiti artists zag and sia are looking for inspiration in the louvre. for them, marianne, the french symbol of liberty, is more relevant now than ever. >> we wanted to create something that represented liberty, now more than ever after the attacks. >> the district mayor offered the artists a set of steps to spray. everything was planned in advance on the computer, each step and all the colors. then zag and sia spent five days spray painting their version of marianne on the cement steps. >> sometimes people think we're spraying here illegally and the police show up. but then it's ok because we have the authorization from the mayor. >> they draw curious onlookers who like what they see. >> it's great, it's art. they id a good job. look at it. it's great. >> some say it's bad 'cause it's grafitti. but it's not. it's art! ♪ >> after more than 150 years, marianne has ventured out of the louvre and is waving the french flag on the streets of paris. high art meets street art. damien: next to turkey which is now being seen as crucial to solving europe's refugee crisis. that's because the vast majority of people fleeing war from syria hoping to get to europe come via turkey. and in fact, millions of them are still there. they feel trapped in a dreadful no-mans-land between the war-zones they've fled from. and a safe europe, which they're trying to reach. but which is increasingly difficult to get to and so, stuck in turkey, they are feeling increasingly desperate. >> their suitcases are ready and waiting, like always. nidal hafez and his family are desperate to make it to europe. but so far, they haven't managed to leave turkey. >> i couldn't make it. my bag, my luggage are still packed, and maybe we will go somewhere else. probably syria. >> hafez doesn't want to risk a dangerous boat crossing to greece and is urging his nephew not to either. the family tried to get to germany by plane but were stopped at the airport in istanbul. a qualified engineer, hafez has been unable to find work in turkey. now, money's running out and hopes of a better life in europe are fading. >> with this new circumstances and new things happening between europe and turkey, ways are very complicated and risky. nowhere to go except back to syria. >> there's a growing sense of despair among the refugees in turkey. many, like these people in the aksaray district of istanbul, spend their days waiting for an opportunity to travel further west. syrians here had not been expecting european countries to close their doors to them. but that's what's happened. >> i don't understand why europeans are treating us like this. the syrian people don't deserve it. we've fled from war. at the very least, we should be treated with respect. >> as a result, many refugees are considering returning home, even if it is unsafe. both aid organizations and travel agents are noticing the trend. the number of one-way tickets being booked is on the rise. >> iraqis especially are buying tickets home because they're losing hope of making it to germany or to another western european country. here in istanbul, they can't make ends meet. that's why they're going back home. >> turkish government figures put the number of refugees in the country at 2.7 million, though some dispute that figure. getting intourkey has become more difficult, and hundreds of thousands of refugees have already left. some have made it to europe, but others have gone home. the hafez family has found safety in turkey. but the children have no access to education and their parents are out of work. now, the plan is to return to damascus, to live in an area of the city that's still standing. but hafez has misgivings. he worries about his children's future. >> you know, i feel like it's very difficult for me to bring them back to syria because maybe they won't find a time like this there. >> nidal hafez dreamed of a safe, legal route into europe. instead, he and his family have been left with no option but to return to their war-torn country. damien: things are looking increasingly difficult for many refugees, so no wonder lots of people are giving up hope. finally to austria, which is often seen as a society with strong traditions, and where most people have tended to be roman catholic. across europe, there are now signs that many people though are moving away from established mainstream religions. but that doesn't mean they are ditching faith entirely. in austria, we've been to meet people who are getting spiritual by taking a walk on the wild side. ♪ >> a shamanism session underway in the austrian alpine town of fieberbrunn. katharina kubrich and her fellow participants are conjuring up their spirit animals. >> donkey. >> donkey, ok. >> rabbit. >> deer. >> wolf. >> leopard. >> wolf. >> black panther. >> elephant! >> katharina certainly could do with an elephant's strength. after a cleansing ritual involving burning white sage, it's time for some shamanic drumming. as your spirit animal passes by the other clients, start looking into your body. >> imagine it's a vessel you're cleaning. the elephant's trunk grows so long that it sucks up everything like a vacuum cleaner. and what the client notices is that all his negative energy, his fears and dreams, thoughts that are no longer needed, are all ing sucked out, cell by cell. >> katharina's imaginary elephant is meant to help her clients cope with the demands of their jobs. she herself has realized she's often too impatient, disorganized and passive at work. for the participants, the 4000-euro, 18-day course is a worthy investment. >> you achieve a greater awareness, interact more easily with others, and feel more relaxed. you get so much insight about why things are a certain way, and that takes the pressure off. often, people find themselves trapped in thoughts like "why is this happening to me now?" or "why did things turn out this way?" but this helps you find answers relatively quickly, and helps you figure out how to solve problems, which is a huge relief. ♪ >> more than 300 students attend ute fechter's classes. she herself incorporates shamanic principles in her everyday life. the former car salesperson consults the spirits whenever she has to make an important decision, like opening a bank account for instance. she's spent the last 20 years learning from shamans all over the world. ♪ >> you learn how to use the rattle, drum and other shamanic tools to access a world that exists alongside our own, which contains beings and benevolent forces that know and see things we can't. it's ancient wisdom that dates back more than 50,000 years. shamanic students learn to speak to plants and other entities. they learn how to make natural remedies, get to know themselves, identify their problems and use shamanism to find solutions. >> practitioners use shamanism to help them with all kinds of problems, whether physical, emotional or career-related. in the next ritual, katharina helps a fellow student address her fears by conjuring up a leaf and filling it with positive energy. in exchange, katharina shares her fears with the others and allows them to help her confront them. shamanism, it seems, can address any problem. >> shamanism is fun. i do it because i love drumming, rattling and communicating with the spiritual world. it's helped me deal with a range of things. i no longer get stressed out or angered by other people's behavior. i can understand it better and have more empathy for them. >> i'm a nurse and understand the limitations of conventional medicine. shamanism can go further. it can help you find solutions you otherwise wouldn't find. ♪ >> after the group has addressed their various problems, it's time for some sustenance. the meals here are simple and nourishing. shamanism places a big emphasis on re-discovering nature. >> my life before was totally normal and pleasant, but these shamanic techniques and applications have given me a fresh outlook. i've always lived mindfully, but shamanism is about showing respect for everyone and everything, whether that's an animal, a plant, a stone or a person. everything has a spirit. ♪ >> shamanism has proven to be an enriching experience for katharina. she's even considering pursuing it as a career. but first, she'll have to consult the spirits. damien: releasing stress by getting in touch with your inner animal. let me know what you think about that or any of the stories on today's show. thanks to all of you who got in touch to say you enjoy the show. next week, the fabulous michelle will be hosting. and she'd love to hear your comments. so do tweet either of us with your thoughts. but in the meantime, it's goodbye from me. and i look forward to seeing see you next time. [captioning performed by the national captioning institute, which is responsible for its caption content and accuracy. visit ncicap.org] steves: since the romantic era in the 19th century, luzern has been a regular stop on the grand tour route of europe. [ whistle blows ] its inviting lakefront now includes a modern concert hall, which incorporates the lake into its design. the old town, with a pair of picture-perfect wooden bridges, straddles the reuss river, where it tumbles out of lake luzern. the bridge was built at an angle in the 14th century to connect the town's medieval fortifications. today, it serves strollers, rather than soldiers, as a peaceful way to connect two sides of town. many are oblivious to the fascinating art just overhead. under the rafters hang about 100 colorful 17th-century paintings showing scenes from luzern and its history. this legendary giant dates to the middle ages, when locals discovered mammoth bones, which they mistakenly thought were the bones of a human giant. here's luzern in about 1400, the bridge already part of the city fortifications. and luzern looked like this in 1630. luzern is responsible for controlling the lake level. by regulating the flow of water out of its lake, the city prevents the flooding of lakeside villages when the snow melts. in the mid-19th century, the city devised and built this extendable dam. by adding and taking away these wooden slats, they could control the level of the lake. swans are a fixture on the river today. locals say they arrived in the 17th century as a gift from the french king, louis xiv, in appreciation for the protection his swiss guards gave him. switzerland has a long history of providing strong and loyal warriors to foreign powers. the city's famous lion monument recalls the heroism of more swiss mercenaries. the mighty lion rests his paws on a french shield. tears stream down his cheeks. the broken-off end of a spear is slowly killing the noble beast. the sad lion is a memorial to over 700 swiss mercenaries who were killed, defending marie antoinette and louis xvi during the french revolution. the people of luzern take full advantage of their delightful river with a variety of cafes and restaurants along its banks. this evening, we're enjoying the setting as much as the food. i'm having the local pork. my producer, simon, is having eel, fresh from the river. with a picturesque setting like this, the dining experience makes for a wonderful memory.