I took a walk through this beautiful world felt the cool rain found something good in this beautiful world i felt the rain getting colder sha la la la la sha la la la la la sha la la la la sha la la la la la anthony everything old is new again, maybe not. I come close sometimes to believing nothing actually ever changes. Back in the beginning fresh out of the kitchen when i first went out into the world to figure out how to make television, i came to northern portugal. Little did i know what i would find. Up until then for 30 years spent working in kitchens, meat had come wrapped in plastic, id order it in boxes. I had never seen an animal die because i was making dinner. Market lady left good morning. Anthony hi, how are you guys doing . Anthony portugal, sandwiched between spain and the atlantic ocean, and tiny as countries go, has had an outsized impact on the world. During the age of discovery the portuguese went to sea in great numbers, gained fame as navigators, ship builders, explorers. They conquered a large part of the world. Their empire stretching from brazil to africa to the east indies. The city of oporto is a reflection and a creation of that relationship with the sea. A lot has changed since i was last here, or has it . When i decided to return to take another look at this place, i of course i reached out to jose de meirelles, my old boss and first entree to portugal. Anthony youre good . Jose its nice to see you. Anthony its been a long, long time. Anthony jose is from the area around oporto, and this time just like back then, he said come see my country, and meet my family. Well do a pig feast. 16 years later, i came here in 2001 one of the first times ive ever been on television and here we are again. There are only so many beautiful places left in the world, oporto is one of them, gorgeous. Has it changed too much . Jose ehh, special big cities, especially oporto, its changed a lot. It was never a tourist town. Now its packed with tourists. Anthony so is that good news or bad news . Jose its good news, its good. I mean its good for the economy, especially if you came up during the financial crisis and all that. So, it was a great help for the city. Anthony i mean it looks even prettier than it looked last time. They seemed to have fixed up a lot of buildings. Jose because this downtown area, historically oporto was completely degraded. Old buildings collapsing with the flux of tourist a lot of people invested, and they started fixing it. Anthony so what are we eating here, this is supposed to be a jose you know actually were going to start with patinhas, those are small sardines. Anthony you eat everything, the bones, you eat the whole thing. Jose everything. You can eat 1,000 of them and the plate is empty and thats a good thing nobody can see how many we eat. Jose you ready for the tripes . Anthony yes jose ahh, so lets go. The tripes is the iconic dish of oporto. Anthony tripieros right . Jose tripas, thats trip people. Anthony why . Jose there were a couple of stories, the more historical one i guess, henry the navigator at one point he was putting an armada of ships to go ceuta the people from oporto gave them all the meat they had. Anthony so they were left with just the tripe. Cheap food for the sailors, that would last a long time. Jose usually its on thursday, thats the day with the tripes. Because being a catholic country on friday they skip the meat. Anthony a meal here is, generally speaking anyway, not light. The portuguese like pork, they like it a lot. Anthony so sausage, bacon jose sausage, pigs ear anthony cured pigs ear. What do you do when left with nothing but guts and hooves and odd bits . Jose you add the tripes in, some beans. Anthony figure out how to transform that into delicious, delicious things of course. Oh wow, look at that. Oh, its fantastic. Jose smells delicious. Anthony yes, it does. Should i put a little rice on the side there to mop it up . Jose yeah, yeah. Anthony mm, that is good. Jose older vintage, 1983 or Something Like this. Anthony i mean its sort of incredible the story of the wines here. I hear because the soil is so tough, flint and stone, that the vines have to dig up to 30 meters down thats a lot, i think it gives the wine a special character. Northern portugals duro valley is where port comes from. If its not from here its not port, its just fortified wine. I dont usually do wine scenes, no matter how good the wine. On camera its just colored liquid going into a glass. Wine nerds usually bore me. Dont talk about your damn wine, drink it. But i absolutely love cheese served with a glass of port wine, and thats what most people including my new friend andre, thats what they do around here. Im not a dessert guy, but nice blue cheese with a glass of port for me is like the perfect thing to end a meal with. Unlike wine, cheese porn is easy, just like shooting actual porn. Start with an establishing shot, move in for a close oh yeah, there we go. Cut away to a reaction. Mm. Money, works every time. Anthony oh [ bleep ] thats its delicious. What kind of cheeses are we looking at here . Andre these over here are goat cheese, theyre aged ones, then all of the other are sheep milk. This is worldly known quiejo da serra so the buttery one. This is what we call quiejo azeitao. Its strong, intense to your palate. Anthony oh, i like this guy already. Any cheese that you need a spoon pretty much to andre oh, then smell it. For me, the worse the smell the better the flavor. Ah, you like it . Anthony smells like dirty feet, taste like heaven. Andre this is a port. Anthony oh thats delicious. Andre put a little bit of that on there with some pumpkin jam on top. Anthony if i put on my speedo and dive into this thing please stop me. Andre oh, no no no. Anthony before i completely face plant. Andre i love portuguese gastronomy, the heart and soul of it is simplicity, look thats the thing that makes me fall in love with it every single day. Anthony cheese is one of those things, its always magic to me because it goes into the cave one way, and the moment you pull it out. I dont believe in god, but somehow it went in like that and came back like this. Andre relying on time to cut its way through it, and to change this, change the texture even the smell and we have nothing to do with that other than enjoying it. Before shipstation it was crazy. Its great when you see a hundred orders come in, a hundred orders come in, but then you realize ive got a hundred orders i have to ship out. Shipstation streamlined that wh the order data, the weights of , everything is seamlessly put into shipstation, so when we print the shipping ll everythings pretty much done. Its so much easier so now, were ready, bring on t. Shipstation. The number one ch of online sellers. Go to shipstation. Com tv and get two months free. And its time to get outside. Pack in even more adventure with audible. With the Largest Selection of audiobooks. Audible lets you follow plot twists off the beaten track. Or discover magic when you hit the open road. With the free audible app, your stories go wherever you do. And for just 14. 95 a month you get a credit, good for any audiobook. If you dont like it exchange it any time. No questions asked. You can also roll your credits to the next month if you dont use them. So take audible with you this summer. On the road. On the trail. Or to the beach. Start a 30day trial and your first audiobook is free. Cancel anytime, and your books are yours to keep forever. No matter where you go this summer make it better with audible. Text summer5 to 500500 to start listening today. Woman in blue dress [ singing in portuguese ] anthony portugal has got a lot of coastline and a lot of history with the sea. Its a close relationship, one thats imprinted deep into the national character, the songs, the poetry, the state of mind. I love this word saudade. Woman in blue dress [ singing in portuguese ] jose saudade means missing something, nostalgic. Anthony a word with no direct translation to english, it connotes longing, being away from something, some place and yearning to get back. Jose the portuguese went out of the country for years at sea and it is not known when he is going to go back to his family. Anthony during the cold gray months, its lamprey season. Oh, hell yeah. So im here at just the right time. What do you call this dish in portuguese . Its lamprey eel . Ricardo yeah, lamprey bordelaise. Anthony awesome. Lamprey are butt ugly damn creatures, but delicious when cooked right and my man pedro knows how to cook it right. Very traditional, cooked in its own blood. Ricardo yeah, its bordelaise style, when its bordelaise it means it has the blood. Pedro it takes a bit of wine so the blood doesnt curdle. You add the garlic, the salt, the pepper, the bay leaf and the parsley and a glass of whiskey. Anthony mm, its good. Its fantastic. Ricardo the saudade is going back to a moment when you were happy. It doesnt matter if was through food, through sex, through whatever. Anthony youre making me sad already thinking about this. Ricardo no, but thats not sad come on. Anthony im getting depressed. Yes, thinking about happy times that i cant have right now. Ricardo theres a hope in the future that thats going to happen because theres also a part of anthony no. Ricardo yeah, i see it like that if you dont see it thats your problem. Pedro i was in portuguese colonial war, in guinea, for two years. Ricardo and you feel saudade for it . Even though there was a war . Pedro there was war, but i feel saudade. Ricardo you feel saudade for your mates, the landscape. Pedro my mates, and the smell, a different smell. Anthony the portuguese were the original navigators. It was about the sea, fishing, exploration. Pedro i see the fishermen now, with their machines. If we gave them a watch and a compass, and left them in the sea, they wouldnt reach land. So i feel great admiration for our ancestors, without engines, going everywhere. Many would die, but they would still go. Anthony ah, question i went to the fish market, i met these women who sell fish there and they were saying terrible, terrible things to me. They were saying hey pin dick, you know how do you satisfy your wife with that tiny little penis . My god, i never in my life heard women, anybody speak like this. Pedro thats typical from the fishwives. Anthony this is what im going to get . Ricardo yeah, nasty approaches about your penis and your height, yeah. Anthony im tony, hi. Sofia im sofia. Anthony sofia. Joana im joana nice to meet you. Anthony good to meet you both. Those of you who know me even a little bit are familiar with my unholy attraction to the mutant hotdog. Is it actually called a hotdog here or is it called sofia here we call it quiosque. Anthony quiosque. Sofia toasted bread, fresh sausage. Anthony fresh pork sausage. Sofia and a cheese and spicy sauce. Anthony and spicy sauce . Joana and cut in a very specific way. Anthony wow i really fast knife work. Sofia hes asking if you want fork and knife, no we can eat it with the our hands. Anthony this is delicious. Joana this is very healthy too. Anthony yeah, im not so sure about that. Theyre busy. Sofia yeah, theyre always busy. Its a small place and you can see its just portuguese, its just local. Anthony right. How many places like this in town . Joana nowadays not many. Anthony now you guys own a tavern . Sofia yes. Anthony hows employment in portugal now . Joana theres a lot of unemployment here. Sofia theres a lot of people like that. Anthony do you get a lot of people with degrees . You know, higher degrees who are opening restaurants in joana yeah, she has a degree in psychology and i have the degree in sociology and everyone who is working with us they have a degree or they are finishing. Anthony i might have to have another. That was good. Im a small business, but i have. Big dreams. And big plans. So how do i make the efforts of 8 employees. Feel like 50 . How can i share new plans virtually . How can i download an efile . Virtual tours . Zipfile . Really big files . In seconds, not minutes. Just like that. Like everything. The answer is simple. Ill do what ive always done. Dream more, dream faster, and above all. Now, ill dream gig. Now more businesses, in more places, can afford to dream gig. Comcast, building americas largest gigspeed network. Anthony the city seems to have been preserved carefully and with respect for the past. I dont see a lot of highrise buildings breaking up the skyline. Ricardo we are still very authentic. We dont sell out very easily. Anthony i mean i was in a relatively poor neighborhood a couple of nights ago just Walking Around and somebody said you could buy that Apartment Building right there for 50,000 and i said okay good deal, but you cant touch the exterior. Ricardo yeah, no. Anthony this is the fishing and port area of porto, yes . Ricardo and its called matosinhos, the fishing boats just arrived and the market is just two streets away from there. Anthony okay. Ricardo oh, my god. Anthony seafood tower, bitches. All right then. Okay not a tower precisely, but a whole heap of incredible creatures from the sea. Coastal shrimp, local oysters, and crab, sea urchin, langoustines, gooseneck barnacles. This im very excited by. So dangerous to get these. Ricardo yeah, its not the thing you get from the hulls of the boats, but from rocks. Anthony and you have to get it in between waves quickly. Whelks. Ricardo [ speaks portuguese ] anthony oh, there we go. Now there we go. Mm, insane. Ricardo the one thing that i dont like with food is sauce. Anthony yeah, i dont need it. This is all perfect. What did they do to it . They steamed it, some of it, the rest is raw. I mean, its not like this is fancy cooking. Mm, this crab is like a rubiks cube trying to figure my way into here. Oh, okay i found it. Ricardo this is the thing that gets you back to your roots. You have to use your hands. You dont have to be polite. Anthony these little shrimp, the brains are really good too. Sea urchin. Fat sacks of roe buried deep inside these prickly exteriors. Ricardo when i was a kid i went with my father to get this and it was nasty, but also very good. Its funny, a lot of these things that we see here were used as fertilizer. Anthony in the years before independence in massachusetts, lobster was seen as a pest. Only people who used them regularly was the prison system. The prisoners rioted because they said this is cruel and unusual punishment, how many lobster are we going to get its monstrous. Nobody knows who first salt baked a fish. Maybe it was jesus. Oh, wow. Scale and gut your fish, in this case a sea bass, insert lemon and onion, then pack it in salt and bake. Light the whole thing on fire tableside and break open. The salt acts as a protective crust sealing in all the moisture and flavor. Now that looks beautiful. Thats just perfect for me. Mm, clams cooked portuguese style. Ricardo yeah. Anthony so tender and sweet and deous. Why do you think portuguese food has not had a higher profile internationally . Ricardo well, for me its real easy for me to say this, its basically its your fault. Anthony our fault . Ricardo its americas fault, yeah. Anthony why . Ricardo the American Culture embraced spain, and embraced italy, and embraced france. It didnt embrace portugal because i dont know. If we have a civil war so popular like the spanish had and hemingway came to portugal instead of spain then wed be a different country. Anthony you know you think of italy, you think of romance. Ricardo but we are romantic. Anthony i know. Ricardo we are the most romantic country in the world. After a couple of meals in porto, youre going to feel the saudade in your heart and soul. Anthony man, good meal. Oh wait, what theres more clams . Right over here, my friend. [ male announcer ] introducing worx pegasus, a nextgeneration, allinone work table and clamping system. Ordinary work tables cant compete. Pegasus has integrated clamps that hold materials tight at any angle. Steel reinforcement makes pegasus superstrong. To prove it, we had pegasus support a car. Sets up in seconds and folds flat for easy storage. Strong. Versatile. Portable. A workspace anyplace. The worx pegasus. Anthony contrary to what some may say, i do not enjoy seeing the death of any living thing. I do not promote animal cruelty. [ man speaking portuguese ] jose ah, ready to go. Anthony yup. Jose kill the pig, kill the pig, kill the pig. Anthony but i think people should know where meat comes from, and knowing, they should feel free to decide what they want to do from there. Jose before you kill them, they give them a local grappa to get them drunk so the meat gets tender. Anthony its the least you can do. Jose exactly. Anthony here, right here on joses family farm, is where i saw my first animal die. A pig too, this after years and decades of being a chef, serving meat, ordering up my death over the phone at a comfortable distance. Up close, it was not so comfortable. Anthony i think hes starting to get the bad news. Jose and thats their dna, they know whats going to happen, and they know anthony they know its coming. Yeah well, the pigs are smart. Jose and sometimes they manage to run away. Anthony to do the job right, professionals are brought in and they do it like this because how shall i put it, they need the heart to keep pumping the blood into the pale, for sausage and soup, and many delicious things. [ ] we all come to this in the end, whether struggling for air in our beds, bleeding out on cold concrete, a last mighty dump like elvis. Or this. Jose oh there are the firecrackers. Thats the start of any festivities you go to, its the firecrackers. Anthony as befitting tradition in the way things are done, this is a once in a year event. For two days extended family, friends, and neighbors gather to cook, cure, and eat a pig. Time for a haircut . Jose yeah, haircut. Anthony old school. Jose they finish up with the blowtorch. Anthony as one must. Luciano good morning everyone, good morning everyone. May you all have a good life. Jose they start singing, we call that everyone makes his own verses and the other person must respond. Anthony so theyre like rappers. Jose yeah, thats it. Anthony freestyle. Jose so now theyre going to finish up and take all the guts out, the heart, liver. Anthony then its lunch. Jose lunch time. Man in cream sweater in portugal we used to say if you want to know our body we have to kill a pig because its absolutely the same. All the organs are placed on the same disposition. You see the liver there and the heart, youve got the tongue there too. Anthony ah, its all in a package. All the good stuff. Look, its a lung. Hes good. Jose yeah he really knows what hes doing. Anthony i would say a surgeon but hes faster than a surgeon. Guts removed, the liver and heart are used today, cooked immediately. Ah, this is the best, the heart. Man in cream sweater its like a tender sirloin. Its so good. Anthony its so good. The intestine washed and reserved for sausage casing. Jose thats the pork intestine, they fill with some kind of cornmeal. Anthony mm, its nice. The rest is left to hang until tomorrow, where we shall feast again. Jose tony this is thats a special part of the pork fat. Anthony ah, its like chicharon. Oh, wow. Jose is that the potatoes with the blood . Anthony oh, thats kind of perfect. Mm. Man in white button shirt not all of the countries eat all the meat of the pork. In here we eat everything. Jose my parents they always kept a reminder when i was growing up during the Second World War there was nothing to eat. They dont waste anything. You wont see these folks at the post office they have businesses to run they have passions to pursue how do they avoid trips to the post office . Stamps. Com mail letters ship packages all the Amazing Services of the post office right on your computer get a 4 week trial plus 100 in extras including postage and a digital scale go to stamps. Com tv and never go to the post office again [ singing in portuguese ] anthony fado, the National Music of portugal. Songs of longing, heartbreak, saudaude set to music. Jose my good friend, anthony, besides other things, he also sings fado. Man with blue collar anthony everybody in portugal thinks that they sing fado. We the portuguese think that the fado is not the perfection, the ability, the fine tuning, its emotion, so everybody is allowed to sing. Yeah, thats why jose is telling everyone that i sing fado. Anthony oh, i see. Man with blue collar normally the guys that sing fado are very happy guys, but when they begin to sing they turn into sad guys i dont know why. Anthony well, you said the portuguese are bipolar. Man with blue collar yes, yes they are. Jose so were ready to eat i think, big enough table . Anthony the home of joses ancestors for centuries, much of their original estate still in family hands. Jose were going to start with the famous blood soup. Its called papa sarrabulho. Anthony very exciting. Joses mother maria is in charge today. Shes preparing a feast of rustic portuguese soul food. Jose so its all little small pieces of meat, usually the bony part, the tradition comes, they cannot scrap no bones and they need to use every single piece. They boil the bones out then they finish with the blood so. Blood and bread. Anthony blood and bread . Mm, beautiful. So good. Jose lets go to the cozido im going to show you the you should eat. Anthony the main event cozido, a glorious stew of seemingly every last part of the pig. Jose im going to give you some of the pernil that is the snout meat. Spare ribs. Anthony nothing goes to waste around here. Jose blood sausage, cabbage. Anthony oh, whats that . Jose thats the bexiga. Its the pigs bladder thats stuffed with pork belly, spare ribs, and then smoked. Anthony wow, look at that. Extraordinary. Man in green sweater and one thing is you dont feel that guilty when youre eating this because its only just boiled and not fried, not anthony no, i dont feel guilty. Ah, its fantastic, superb. Wonderful, thank you. Jose, whats left of the pig . A couple of hams and not much else. Jose well, everything is on salt right now. Anthony so the shoulders and the legs are in salt . Jose theyre on salt. Theyre going to be in salt for about one month and then theyre going to be smoked and going to be prosciutto. Man in blue sweater and they are fantastic. Jose so you spoke about fado and sadness but you know after a few drinks, everybody gets very happy. You know, with wine it means with wine happiness. Anthony cheers now its kind of funny, francesinha, which translates as Little French girl, but i understand shes not so little. All no sofia its your first time . Francesinha . Anthony it is. Joanna really . Anthony you have this look on your face like you look worried. Joanna good luck. Anthony its going to be okay, right . Woah, here we go. Good lord, look at that thing. Is there a vegetable in there . Sofia only meat. Anthony oh, my god, it weighs like a ton. So its bread, ham, steak. Andre sausage and a bit of linguica. Sofia and then the sauces. Many things like beer, port wine, spicy, tomato. Anthony cheese . Andre a lot of cheese. Anthony wow, what a construction. Meat, cheese, fat and bread, its an immortal combination. Andre yeah, its the ultimate solution for hangover or too much port. Anthony that is delicious. Oh, thats good. Andre its really, really good. Anthony are there a lot of places making this . A lot. Joanna everyone does. Anthony and this is a porto thing specifically . Sofia yes. Anthony whats the relative rate per capita of heartrelated disease in this country, im just curious. Sofia it depends on how many francesinha you have. Anthony uhoh. You guys need any fish . Everything old is new again, maybe not. I come close sometimes to believing nothing actually ever changes. That we are trapped in our destiny, hurtling, or limping or being dragged towards the inevitable. That saudade refers not to a long lost place, but a long lost time when we were all young and innocent. Andre saudade can help you value things. Be grateful for just the sunset, enjoy that, smile. Anthony enjoy it now. Andre yes. Anthony because tomorrow we die. Andre you will never know. Thousands of children separated from their parents as an Immigration Crisis continues in the United States. The man once Campaign Chairman now behind barbars, pa man for the accused of tampering with witnesses. And world on cup excitement around the world, Cristiano Ronaldo steals the spotlight. Live from cnn World Headquarters in atlanta, we welcome our viewers here in the United States and all around the world. Im George Howell in the cnn newsro
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