so you heard the sleeping call of the whale? >> the what? >> the sleeping call of the whale and the dining car? >> no, we lost the dining car, i hear. >> we lost the dining car but even our sleeping car lost a wheel so we just have to hope for the best. >> the night express to bagan. 600 kilometers of what will turn out to be kidney-softening travel by rail, but bagan, myanmar's ancient capital, i've been told, is a must see. >> the true old english experience. the engine is a french engine from the '70s. >> we've been told it's a somewhat uncomfortable ten-hour trip. so really the question on this end of the journey is come back on the train or flying coffin? mishaps on both burmese planes and trains are not, shall we say, unheard of. the widowmaker express. >> that is the choice.