The notes of juniper, and what is the chord from the absolute . Is different . An accord is a combination of several elements, several ingredients, that is , to make a rose accord you dont need to use rose oil at all, in the mass market they naturally dont use it, there are roseoxides, citranilols, gyraniols and so on, radinols, which can be mixed and get the aroma of a rose or geranium, often sold under the guise of bulgarian rose. The oil is ghirani oil, well , by the way, this is not mazhevelnik, but here are mazhevelnik berries, but there is a lot of stuff here, this perfume is called rashansol, there is cognac, the cognac is so chocolatey, smoky, yes, its nice, we were talking about alcohol, in fact there are no restrictions in perfumery, they often ask what can be mixed there, do these notes go together, do they go together, at least it will be socks. And several components, usually in a perfume, well, in an average perfume there are 30 50 components, a component is one or more, but in general you can hear a lot of notes, different noses hear differently, so you and i will listen, for example , musk galaxolite or some other musk, you will hear apple notes there, i have banana notes. Someone will hear us, and as i understand it, on each persons skin they open differently, yes desks, and in men and women they open differently in the same way, well, it s just different for different people, in fact, i dont think so, which depends greatly on gender, but rather depends on the type of skin, that is, oily, dry, on a man it still reveals itself more masculine, of course, mixed with hormones, and with andrastenone, the appearance of such a child in my life was a complete surprise, dem we are so small, but strong family, we will formulate a request with you, we have a good room, and maybe it will be even better, we came up with the idea of making a rack here, dad and son leave the room alone, together, hop complex, even just hanging, very good for the back, in this corner it is collected everything for cozy evenings, this is vinyl, this is. A cinema hall, we got to our home, about comfort, the premiere, tomorrow on the first, a wonderful drama is being filmed, i hope it will be funny, Boris Yuryevich had some kind of streak , he could choose from the crowd, a lot now famous people, thanks to lasha, well, he was just such a kinopa, he was, but for me, its not me, its her. Machine gun, i dont have an acting education, verovalash became the first step in cinema, tell me, well, who am i . I passed it, by the way, without testing, he just showed me, sanya, your emotions are needed here, thats all, dont be afraid, we ate on purpose so as not to bite, not to eat small children, its a tremendous pleasure and happiness to do what you you love madly, what the audience loves, probably Nothing Better and this is not, on the seventyfifth anniversary of his birth. Boris grachevsky is on the first one tomorrow, and im walking, Walking Around moscow, still at the mitrouniversitet station passengers point to that same escalator, someone even starts wearing the song of the hero Nikita Mikhalkov from the film im Walking Around moscow. I dont like when they call me a comedian, because i havent done much comedy. The brilliant Georgy Danelia was a magician on the set, but how did he manage to direct his own life . Dana came home and said to sokolova lyuba, im leaving, i i fell in love, lyuba began to cry, i think, what is it like to live unloved, this is what it is like to live unloved, is it true that the plot of the autumn marathon is autobiographical, he lived on two. Life and lyuba sokolova got it all, the fact that gundareva played, we get a prize, i m happy that hes watching, and he looks, its very interesting, she always carries slander, for example, she said that he got married at the first meeting, for which the director blamed himself after the tragedy that happened in his family, after clinical death he weighed 42 kg, and i realized that i have to save him, our exclusive , family secrets of the great director, exclusive with dmitry borisov, premiere, tomorrow on the first. We return to our perfume laboratory. Today we are unraveling the secret language of fragrances, perfumers kirill khaikin and Polina Kazakova are helping me with this. And there is some kind of seasonality in perfumery, so lets say its appropriate to use only aromas in winter. Now we have springsummer, everyone is trying to choose some light spring scents. Well, we came up with seasonality. People, just marketers, who are, yes, they are all the same are associated with something summer or winter or are associated, for example, with the smell of vanilla, why is it so popular in winter, because we want to be warm, cozy, we want such a warm hug, the smell of vanilla, for example, such warm spices of the skin, a burning fire, it warms , if we want it to be the wind in our hair, a daisy dress, then these are some bright and fresh ones. Aromas of purity, citruses are explosive, and what do you recommend for springsummer 2024, for example, i brought a perfume called colon indilibil, its a green perfume, clean, uh, white shirt, i really like to wear it in the spring, spring and summer, when you want to cool down, there are herbs, well, that is, its just so light, longlasting enough, yes, its not important , greenery, but it may smell to some, we really discussed it here. It can smell like a white shirt, well , thats the scent of purity, yes, yes, yes, i can also show and recommend this perfume, its called narcissus grove, its actually a similar profile, because i wanted narcissus grove, whats there besides narcissus, and freesia, there is pepper, there is greenery, a lot of greenery, that is, this is grass, this is purity. These are these yellow flowers, a narcissus bouquet, i tried to make it less complicated, because they are just so light and floral, well, this is for spring, that is, the first scent we heard about cognac, it is already so heavier for the winter, lets i ll also let you listen to the scent, its called, that is, cherry and leather, cherry and leather, its quite aquatic, transparent, elegant, but it emphasizes this. Due to the cherry, and the leather its not leather like a bag or a glove, its more like warm human skin, very pleasant, and i remember that tom ford has a cherry that i didnt like, your cherry is just a real cherry, youve been outdone, tamfort, you ve been outdone , cool, why dont we, by the way, make a fragrance today that will correspond to the trends of spring, summer of 2024, in general, the trends now. In perfumery, you can probably single out the main four or five directions, really perfumery makes its sound easier, if a few years ago everyone associated niche perfumery with a dark liquid in a bottle and this languid trail that you cant be near, but now niche perfumery makes much more transparent and understandable fragrances from the point of view of use, comfortable, so here lets think about what is ki associated with spring . With flowers, with greenery, i thought about how singing birds smell, smell, now, singing birds, it seems to me that they are like that with the scent of some kind of rose, by the way it doesnt smell, it smells, i now, well, i dont know, maybe they deceived me, i was just in yerevan and bought it on the street, the small flowers smelled incredible, they said they were snowdrops, pinkish and white, maybe they were some kind of variety. It smells like this earthy camphor aroma, and probably there is also the aroma of fresh buds, and there is also the aroma of buds, currants, which is by the way. Such a marker for the russian consumer, its very familiar to us, its just hardwired into our dna, currants, yes, by the way, if you want to listen, i have this component, you know, it is very risky, because there are some brands whose currant aroma sounds like cat urine, and this is if they most likely use a natural component, and there is a cassies base, a wonderful french base, which is already so much more perfumey, i now yes. Listen, depending on how you play it too, you can add honey to it, it will also smell like cat affairs, yes, that one, this is without cats, and whats good about this base is that it can be given a character berries and green leaves, like this, listen, this pa is called, it just smells like any pink flowers, but what can we add to make it different . Such a pronounced floral, and so that there is something in it such a niche appeal, yes, lets add, maybe cedar, just texas, will convey the smell of this land, its probably very beautiful, mm, it can emphasize the flowers, here listen to it, its not very oh, but pleasant, its even a little vanilla, but its tobaccovanilla. Smokiness, its like vanilla, oh, i like it, theres also some smokiness in it pleasant, and lets add citruses to give life to the aroma, well, but we re all interfering with all these, but what we have, well, let me also add a few functional ones, for example, ill add musks, and what does functional mean, well, yes, for example, the body of a fragrance that cannot be made without musks, it will simply be a perfume, it will be inferior not. You know that some people do not hear musks, when i was training, it seemed to us that our teachers were mocking us, they said this musks, just smell them, they give us a blotter, they they dont smell at all, and in order for the brain to create a new neural connection, and we begin to recognize musks, we need to smell them 1020 or 30 times, then the brain understands that we need to create a new neural connection, listen, is it sensitive . To musk, by the way, i was recently at a wine tasting, i noticed that when you smell, say, a certain type of wine, when you taste it, you feel completely different notes, for example, you smell and feel the aroma of pineapple, and then you you taste and feel vanilla, well, in different ways, here you also have you, by the way, do you taste it, i try it, as a researcher i try everything, no, in fact, the same components, they can be used in flavoring. The area that deals with the creation of flavors for food, that is , mango, for example, the same thing, it can be made in perfumery, and in flavorings for cottage cheese in an anotizer, this can be done with just therms, oh, i feel its not so bad powdery floral, but pleasant, it reminds me of mimosa, by the way, i have mimosa, and we can use it in our aroma for spring, mimosa absolute looks like this but well make it not very sweet, but Something Like that, basically green, listen, it smells like violet, yeah, well, you need a little bit of it, it seems to me, well, by the way, this is not the same mimosa, we have mimosa, why are we giving these flowers, its actually an acacia, its not a mimosa, but here its absolutely yellow, too, but its not these cats, while polina is in the way, kirill, tell me, are there any fragrances that never go out of style . In fact there are so few types new fragrances, that this is how it was laid down , some kind of archetype of aroma, such as at the end of the 19th century, this is how it is used now, for example, wine glasses, aromas, we all know them as mens perfumes, well, the smell of a locker room, the smell of a razor , this type was founded at the end of the 19th century. Chypres also originated around this period, a little later in the 20th century, this is not like soviet chypre, these are usually heavy scents with patchouli, with rose, and these scents are now evolving, of course, those mistakes that were once popular here in the 20th century are no longer relevant now, well, for example, there is poison dior, this is a thorn, yes, now they have evolved and, for example, here. Also this modern chypre, fruity chypre, but the chypre has changed, but essentially the structure remains, do we want to add pepper to our spring scent, oh, i really love pepper, i for. Its a pity i dont write down the formula, what if it will be a brilliant aroma, but thats okay, you and i still remember the ingredients that were there, we can talk about the portions forget, this is tatyana gevarkyan and im not crazy, together with me in the studio are young perfumers, kirill khaikin and Polina Kazakova, we analyze the fragrances note by note and learn about the main trends of this season. How to apply perfume correctly . Right, well, actually, well , usually, as usual, this is the wall, this is the neck, that is , where the pulse is, well, the pulse zones, as it is believed, this is all bullshit, where we really want to go, well, where are the open areas that will smell if the wrist is also possible, they are simple its a question of what else exactly wrists, they may be warm and the perfume may be less persistent, and therefore you can apply it here on. The back of the hand, yeah, and it will already be cold here, the aroma will be more persistent, and it will be more convenient to show it to your interlocutor, that is, not just like that, and toss and turn, like that, yeah, it s applied to the hair, yes, to the hair too, like on clothes, on the hair the aroma is more persistent, but maybe less intense, but how to choose the right aroma . I always advise, of course, not to buy right away, never buy right away, because if you are now very i liked it, its not a fact that in 2 days you will take it. You smell it and say what you like, so you need to ideally, ideally , ask the consultant for a sample, or first try it on a blotter, well, on a blotter, of course, first we always try it on a blotter, yes, if you like it, ask for a sample to wear it took a few days, if they didnt give you a sample, we applied it very rarely, and then we went for a walk, that is, we need to apply it somewhere on the wrist or wherever, well, wherever we want, where we usually use it, where its convenient to put it later, because yes, if we if we put it on the neck, we wont hear it, well , you can only give it to someone else to smell it and for me, for example, i think that its not the most appropriate gift to give perfume to someone, because its very individual. Well, if, for example, you know that a person uses the same perfume, you give him everything, yes, and so, yes, of course, it s a matter of taste, you need to, you just need to lead, take the person to the store and choose, while it turns out very tender, with a slight pepper on top, so, now wait, the appropriate moment, we may think, to add anything else, you need to wash the receptors. So far, very floral , very floral, yes, i would like Something Like that , some kind of brutality, if you want, yes, we will add vitiver java and we can also add cedar, yes , it is important to say that the work of a perfumer is not these 50 components, but 700 , i have 700 800 is a large organ called such a step and you should ideally know these components, guess whichever one you took , you know it. Okay, if i, say, want to achieve some uniqueness of the aroma, is it enough for me to buy Something Like this from you . Its quite possible to mix some bubbles at home, depending on your mood, on your skin, that is, i can use such solutions, you need to understand that these will not be perfumes anymore, since perfume is, well, a product that has certain functional properties, if you put nerali oil on your hand there, its not a fact that it will smell there after at least an hour, that is, by the way, im in quality. Perfumery once bought aromatic oils already mixed, they had some unique aromas, different no matter what, they lasted very well, the sillage was very light, i really liked it, to the light florality we added leather notes, amber and a little tobacco, very light, but they already give character, it turned out to be a very interesting aroma, cool, yes i i think that this fragrance is ready for us from 24 years old, kirill, and i propose, by the way, since this is the case, to mix a perfume that we will call not a bastard, i propose some kind of audacity to add there, of course, absolutely, fragrance which will mix in the future and the past, well, like fashion, yes, this is a fragrance that depicts freesia, its called etilino, despite the fact that its a classic floral, but theres something in it. Theres this slightly rubbery aspect, and we ll add a lot of it , we will have perfume, there will be perfume about purity, i do this without scales, of course, we dont work like that, but we pour it on the eye, then lets add bergamot here, absolutely right, bergamot, well, everyone is familiar with it, tea with bergamot, everyone drank, by the way, there is often no bergamot itself, its synthetic , thats just the work of the flavorist, then, lets add this oh, interesting, it has such a sparkle floral tenderness, so we will have some flowers now, lets add some audacity, hot, burning rubber or something, we can, we can do this, because that fashion is still about a challenge, you can add ashes, thats great, this is that you will have it forever, and this will be oak moss, since its fashioncyclical, let it be reborn like a phoenix all the time, oak moss, by the way, often. Was popular precisely in such old perfumes, he too salty, its woody, so downright interesting, and we do unisex, yes, yes, we do unisex, of course, there is also a component that is called floral animalistic, that is, now it will give us austerity to our colors, naturalistic, this is again kitties, these are not kitties here, this is more like cow pat, this is indole, it smells like lily of the valley, fermented green tea, so rough, rough. Just like that and add a little paint too, so that we add feces and a painted fence, we sand it all down with aldehydes and colors, yes without embellishment, i would really like to add a note of mimosa, oh, what is it, its actually not only mimosa, its also marzepane, powderatropine and heliotropin, yes, yes, its a good component, its a little bit culinary, even that. That these perfumes smell like it, but yeah, by the way, we also have iris in the spring scent, so we have ionone beta, well, yes, pauline, you studied the art of perfumery, and are there any differences by region, you have in mind, if there are preferences, depending on, of course, there are preferences, but lets divide the market into two huge categories, this the European Market and the arab market, and what the arabs use in their perfumery sometimes. In our latitudes it is impossible to listen, in their fortydegree heat, having applied a scent that would suffocate us here, there it sounds pure, beautiful, broad, that is, of course, everything depends on the place where it is used , or the norwegian style, but such a scandinavian style, such restrained, cold, cool aromas, in russia, probably, there are some markers that we all know, here we have an apple on the table , he is the component that reminds us of a baked apple or. Have tea with this pie, apple with cinnamon, apple with cinnamon, cool, great, yes it sounds, that is, perfumes are naturally different, this is our next ingredient, and this is already ready, already ready, well i didnt add a little bit of it on purpose, so that later i could trace the effect, oh nice, well add the aldehyde, which we talked about at first, now well trace how the sound chang