When friends visit Aliza Haskal’s apartment in Syracuse, New York, she offers them gripping entertainment: a live feed from a camera 6 feet below the surface of a cloudy river in the Netherlands. As soon as a fish glides by, Haskal hurries to press the website’s sole button. It is a doorbell — specifically, a doorbell for fish. The button helps alert a worker in the Dutch city of Utrecht to crank open a dam, allowing the fish to wriggle toward shallower water where it can spawn. Sign up for The

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