âIn the European narrative of food, you'd never assume French and Italian chefs cook the same dishes,â says Marcus Samuelsson. âBut for Black food in America, it often boils down to one thingââa set of heavy Southern dishes. In his new cookbook,
, the Swedish Ethiopian chef who modernized soul food with his Harlem restaurant, Red Rooster, rips that idea to shreds, with the help of James Beard Awardâwinning writer Osayi Endolyn. The book contains profiles of the country's leading chefs of color along with their recipes, spotlighting the range and nuance of Black cuisines. Here, three of its subjects share their feelings about where they fit in the culinary scape of their cities and other local chefs of color they admire.