With a very different festive season upon us this year, there’s still one thing guaranteed to lift our spirits. And that’s actual spirits, with more whiskies, gins, vodkas and liqueurs infused with all sorts of Christmassy flavours hitting the shelves than ever before. From Christmas pudding vodka to bespoke festive malts, there’s a host of drinks to help Santa (and his helpers) feel a little merrier. Some are made to sip on their own, others are best used in cocktails — but are any of them any good? Our drinks expert Helen McGinn puts a selection to the test . . .