Ben Groundwater11:43, Jul 08 2021 This article was published on Australia’s traveller.com.au and is republished with permission. Juan Walker shades his eyes from the glare of the Queensland sun as he looks out over Kuku Yalanji country, his country, his ancestors' country. He sweeps his arm across the vista of Four Mile Beach, the lowlands where Port Douglas spreads, out to the hills in the far distance. This is where his people are from, he says. Out to the mountains there. And then his voice barely changes pitch as he continues: This is where the white bounty hunters would roam. This is where they would hunt and kill the Kuku Yalanji people and carry their heads back to town to exchange for money.