comments In "Quick & Dirty," Salon Food's Mary Elizabeth Williams serves up simplified recipes and shortcuts for exhausted cooks just like you â because quick and dirty should still be delicious. Why aren't we putting chocolate on bread all the time? That's the question I keep returning to as of late. It's a dream that took hold when I went to Paris as a teen. At the time, I was staying with a French family who dazzled me with their sophistication. They drank wine with lunch, and for breakfast, they slathered Nutella on baguettes. I was blown away. They had a jar! Of chocolate! On their kitchen table! Suddenly, the Count Chocula I'd previously considered the apex of morning luxury seemed hopelessly pedestrian.