Marcus Kenney + Ten Speed Press The Grey opened in Savannah, Georgia, in 2015. It was promptly named one of Esquire's Best New Restaurants. Five years later, we called it one of the most influential restaurants of the 2010s. Then, in the midst of the pandemic, we named it one of 100 restaurants America cannot afford to lose. Why this fandom for the Grey? In part, the food, which is incredible. And in part because a Black chef and a White restaurateur who didn't know each other all too well took over an old Greyhound bus terminal on Savannah's Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard that had once segregated its travelers, and made what Esquire Food & Drinks Editor Jeff Gordinier argued could be called "the most important restaurant in America." So, how did they do it?