As I dodge Parisians walking their poodles and pushing baby strollers down a busy market street, I'm reminded that one of the reasons Paris is endlessly entertaining is its thriving neighborhoods. On streets such as Rue des Martyrs, everyday people make cozy communities in the midst of this vast, high-powered and touristy city. Along these friendly streets, you find a warm and human vibrancy you'd miss if just hopping from big museum to museum.

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