hire a couple of bikes and go for a spin. “That’s great. Can you bring me back one of their King Prawn Rings and some Sticky Chicken Skewers?” Not really the response I was soliciting when I mentioned to a neighbour that I was going to Iceland on a motorbike, but even when I’d cleared up the confusion and explained that I was referring to the country, not the local supermarket, his reaction was still unremarkable to say the least. “Why the hell do you want to go there?” Iceland’s one of those countries that everyone’s vaguely heard of, but few know much about. It’s up in the Arctic somewhere, freezing cold, light all summer, dark all winter and inhabited by people who wear woolly jumpers, eat whale and believe in trolls. Only some of that is untrue.