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Transcripts For DW Close Up 20240713

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Are still poisoning the planets rivers how can that be and how those toxic substances end up enough food. Place. To go. To. A new branch of clothing chain prajna openings in the german city of bonn hunters up on some forms. And some of the other climate protesters live a better life without crime out they chant. But theres no scorning the Party Atmosphere inside im shopping at prime aka has its advantages. Showing us what its unbeatable in term. A value for money you get really nice things super cheap its just thinking ive got to come out in the clear so perfect for canada doesnt matter if the children get into a mess. So lets take the time out principle to the extreme we offer these close to the public for free but there is a price which gets paid here in our choir and which and our experiment stands for the rivers in asia and this bottle of liquid represents the dice that run into the hoosier on tracers. Thats cool is what i have to do. Do you suppose those poison into the fish tank christian. Oh theyre living creatures i cant do that because i know the symbol suggested something poisonous i dont want to pour that in with the fish. So i made after them she would take that for daddy lets find out what the catch is its right here. Ok then ok maybe not. But wont do it why not because theyre animals theyre living creatures seriously if those are safe but they are maybe the same thing happens when clothes are manufactured but you dont see it its not like youre doing it yourself. All just panic mongering. The high Street Stores would no doubt see it that way times have changed they say the production of their clothing is now sustainable. Income from 8. Am saves water. We want to know the truth. We begin with theres either family in the town of met none in western germany that fairly typical shoppers. In vincent are just most labels. Mom and dad just want to be well dressed for their daughter sophia fashion its very important. We want to look at the process used to die clothes. Did you know it takes an average of 6 liters of water and die to color just one long sleeve top giant that was packed full of chemicals. So that thats bad plants and animals could die plants in the 50 feet of its really a lot when you think of the masses of clothes that are made and how much water that consumes and the waste water that results in it. But theres more waste water to come to the top still needs to be rented and thats just one item what if they add up all the clothes. Each one weighs the contents of the closet because in practice the calculations are done in kilos every kilo requires 20 liters of water visits and it was thought ive got 30 kilos of clothing. That is not i dont wear many of these things too small for me but i think one day maybe ill fit into them again. Because things add up over the years its mum who has the most clothes the family wardrobe ways and that nearly 200 kilos well rounded up or some clothes are in storage and others are in the wash severe calculates a total of 520. 00 tubs of water and die and thats just one family. What happens to that waste when. We pay a visit to bangladesh the worlds 2nd biggest textile producer after china back to the ash is said to have significantly modernized its production methods but only after disaster struck in april 2013 the rana plaza factory collapsed killing over 1100 people allegations surfaced that many factories cut corners on safety to satisfy international demands for cheap curbs western companies who have the goods made here felt compelled to take action. Many join the act initiative committing only to work with factories that meet standards on wages safety and the environment. The Bangladesh Garment Association lists factories that meet the required standards. We visited one of them never capital dhaka. The mattel a factory produces closer brands such as c. N. A. H. And m. And zara all according to strict Environmental Standards the Company Tells us they made a major investment. From all sides we need to. Give for. Next generation. For the future. Maj implement his modern Water Purification system. Instead of pumping the waste water from the dying process into the river its 1st purifying but has it paid off for the factory. This is very unfortunate yes we are not getting any single penny ad this is this should be different actually from the buyers point of view should because this is the green factory. We. Invested a lot of. What in the companys customers have to say about us. See in a confirms what weve been told and matilda. All investments must be calculated by the factories and reflected in the prices charged for the products. H m m refused to tell us what percentage of the cost it passed to ensure production standards here are environmentally friendly zark didnt apply all. The western brands make demands but its the factories in bangladesh that bear the cost. And is the system even working we decided to take a closer look at the rivers in dhaka. By the dallas warry river we need chairman and test team some of the last fishermen here. They tell us that the fish have long since disappeared from other brothers and that even here this very little left since the textile factories arrived they say more than 4000 fisherman have been put out of work. It turned out years ago the water was good because there wasnt a fish out since the factories arrived its got bad. You. Know fish no money and not enough to eat. Many people here have factually nothing. And its not only the fishing industry thats taking a hit were on our way to see an environmental activist who explains moon. To mars and tells us that the repercussions of the pollution are huge however peoples life depends on what the study called the help for the harvest for the water to the build up of the layers of the soil the overall picture is the whole country all the rebuts all the details i have been polluting materials there and in making the girl story help tell there are still the people. The fisherman want to show us the cool. The problem waste water pipes from the textile factories we see them everywhere emptying straight into the river. The water looks dirty and gives off a strong chemical odor. We take samples at random locations both all mad at us wiring and another river we want to get the water tested for heavy metals and have the oxygen content checked. But were not optimistic these bubbles coming to the surface are found smelling gases. 2 weeks later back in germany we have an appointment with the World Wide Fund for nature the test results confirm my suspicions the textile industry in bangladesh is poisoning the reverse. The idea flows this complex toward the one where there is completely dead and the other almost dead in the case of the once until the values are 100. 00 times higher than what a river here in europe would have. Them be at your patient in euro and that lasik lee means that there is no oxygen left in it at all. So no a classic life can survive in the water plants and of course people shouldnt drink the water either sentenced thinking despite improvements in bangladesh the underlying problems have clearly not gone away in other parts of asia the textile industry also pumps as waste water into the rivers every day one day the rivers might be red another blue or purple. In many areas the ground water is not suitable for drinking purposes. And yet it gets used for cattle farming. And for growing fruit vegetables and other crops. Some of which can end up in europe in supermarkets. Inspectors from the european rapido that system for food and found produce from asia containing toxins. There are also found in the textile industry such as cadmium chromium and lead. Up and i didnt know that theres theres also terrible or just wrong terribly naive and i guess if were lucky we get produce grown in germany has let you not have heard about us difficult with ginger bread but you get that when you were at many girls in asia but experts are warning of a bigger problem the lack of clean water could destroy entire societies and mike ponce of the wild uninhabitable has looked legal musee will be woes because of the was and mass migration with people fleeing Water Pollution and water shortages. This is many dont realize this is a major problem coming our way so what. The new fabric start is an International Trade fair for the textile industry it attracts bias from all brands launching small much of what is on display here will be later sold by spring as all of a diesel and by just come to us like little here too we encounter a lot of green slogans we need to filter by you have to stop what you have to make profits long look or this is a no children put under show ration care all those figures know what to do during. All this whole being excited being poisoned thats what we do. But just doesnt match reality. Says your controller he spent years working in fashion management now hes a University Professor he says its still money that drives the industry and now it has a green machine. With a name how much fun stuff companies have realized that this is a market with a future and their Green Products are ones that appear to be green can increase sales will go forward now how disgusting ability has become a Business Model and it has very little to do with the idea of consuming less and being more responsible with our resources the game has managed to toward. An unsettling force because the use of dyes is king for the world of fashion the textile industry produces 20 percent of the world one structure that makes it the 2nd biggest consumer and pollution of water. But why is so little changing and bangladesh for example after all memories factories say that cleaned up their act we talked to one economist who studied the countrys textile industry. These types of factories are very limited in number at the essel fall and majority of the factories are still using Raw Materials from textiles. Which other not comply with the Environmental Standards. Even companies that install Water Treatment systems dont always use them as theyre expensive to run one of the fear of these factories is that if one factory follow and other fetid doesnt follow goals which doesnt follow will be profitable because profitable bury those which follow so the easy dilemma among the fact is that the others would get benefit because of devins of the law. So when western Clothing Brands talk about Environmental Standards and Water Treatment that doesnt necessarily mean much working to visit a factory that isnt using a Water Treatment system but doesnt take long to track one down we book an appointment. To a curious to know what Clothing Brand is the fact it works well if. This is the owner of the business we tell them where design is from germany he shows us his factory and his Water Treatment system which is switched off. And yes there are plenty of fabrics being died and rents to the directive doesnt see it as a problem he wants to discuss details about business deal a deal that isnt actually allowed. Manufacturers that want to export to the west are supposed to be listed with the Bangladesh Exporters Association which in turn ensures labor and Environmental Standards are upheld. But the factory owner knows a workaround if we simply have to sign a contract with a Different Company which unlike his is a member of the association it will then pass the order on to him we do that all the time he says. Later we learned that the authorities have officially shut down the style house for violating Environmental Standards clearly to no effect since the factory continues to pollute. Back in germany we still have no proof that the officially shuttered factory could actually pull off the closed work around. But then we get a message from the dye house it looks like burn business it includes the name of the other factory that were to sign a contract with. Them that once called sham knocked on garments. Thats the good company the one that allegedly has a certificate in europe. And sure enough the company is listed with a textile association and fulfills all the requirements for labor standards and environmental regulations on its website we find a list of the International Customers that it works with. These include taco and things family. The factory looks Exemplary Service will go for a dirty deal we ask for a quotation of 5000. 00 pairs of pants and mention the dials we visited in bangladesh. Shock to reply saying they worked with all the any needle too and yes the dealers no problem shaktar moved so the pants but the factory we visited will die the fabric without a functioning motor treatment system and officially shut down by the authorities. At this point we break up the deal the problem has become clear. Western Clothing Brands may say that they only work with Certified Companies but those Companies May in turn pass on some of the work to other firms that do not observe Environmental Standards we can from the brands that work was. All the illegal tell us theyre not currently working with the company. And stings family rights we have a sworn statement both from our importer and from the supplier the. Am stings family garments are only tied and processed in certified dye houses. Tucker confirms that supplier does indeed cooperate with illegal di houses but allegedly not when it comes to garments for tucker our supplies are checked every 3 months and their suppliers at least once a year. The Companies Deny all involvement in unsound Business Practices but as out sperm it showed the system can easily be exploiters in the art of struggling fishermen the pollution rivers any assessment we received from experts its clear that happens a lot. It doesnt help that the big western brands pressure the factories to keep their prices low. And head on to name countries not every company can resist the pressure of observer shadowy Accounting Practices lying and deceit become widespread. Just as the producers can keep going and still retain their certification. Or attend by the english that says im. Back to the cedar family. So they know now that dying clothes involves toxic chemicals but is it really necessary to die so much stuff it depends on how much clothing we need we set up a symbolic closet made up of 10 boxes each wants represents 10 percent of the wardrobe so what percentage of they would do most germans where regulate. What are they just think. The family soon comes to a decision that people dont actually need that much they reckon 3 boxes thats about 30 percent in reality its just 20 percent that means that 80 percent of clothes in the closet and not worn there was a big deal tends to wear things we like if i buy something what are the chances all wear it given how much i already have oh. And look at what them for. Now we ask busy just to clear out their closets with again sofias room. Well look if you can go out if you have a lot of. Oh i thought a lot of it i dont wear anymore i think you know i think you need to wear out a few things 1st youre constantly buying new clothes you can possibly wear all the things you have here. Thats why ive sorted them out. We tell each one to check with their closet do i wear that piece of clothing often not so much. That only what. I would not all but its what i wear off and. Im not about these things. Knowing that but this is what i wear most and so on. Many times the few things that he wears all the time after 3 or 4 days i said ok that pillow has dirty and needs washing he doesnt carry his clothes much so he doesnt need much. So we are scared we want to pick up the things that they dont really need. And we take sophias box with us for our fashion professor to have on the couch. What does he think. Of the good going to shoppers are clearly like shopping. These are meant to be read to me. But enjoyable is infinite and these are the young people of course tend to go for extremely cheap clothes. German market is very much divided on cost but we mustnt forget that on average every german spends 900. 00 euros a year on clothes that spread of course across the different regions and levels of income that we are. In europe through much of the british consume more than we do so were not exactly role models when you look at the global comparison or even when you compare us to other Big Industrial nations. Were actually the victims of our own prosperity. That we have Nothing Better to do than go shopping. So if were the victims who were the perpetrators could they be here in the shopping malls the clothing chains with that constant cycle of new styles and cut price bargains. Clothing Industry Sales have doubled since the year 2000 and. One of the reasons. The entire process from initial design to sewing dying and rinsing in asia to a sale here in germany can now take as little as 12. 00 to 14. 00 days that allows fashion giants like zara to bring out a whopping 24. 00 new collections a year the latest trends every 2 weeks. This also increases the pressure on the fracture is an asia will run away to another factory in bangladesh with a long standing tradition the owner has been in the textile business for 30 years leaving dyeing selling and missing mama taught him says there are now knots of regulations and he fulfills them all but he also says its getting increasingly difficult because his western buyers drive a hot dog and. The men doing these all of safety we need extra money everybody every day. But from the battle site everybody sees on their degrees their. Price and lust 5 to 6 yes their degrees their prize please dont be afraid to party bosses. The chances of orders from one customer its a Major Company that operates in germany too but to avoid repercussions weve agreed not to share the name. He gets 27 percent less money now than he did 3 years ago for the same order they were in interment big give me one. Of their burger should meet their target price others will not get the order so sometimes. We. Would definitely we can move their rights but some sometimes we are giving laws we take theirs with target price or. In those cases he makes a loss but can at least paint his workers the workers that the western companies are allegedly so concerned about. So we ask the companies what they pay and wonder dash. H. An abscess the h. And m. Group pays no less than it did in previous years. Right we cannot affirm that our purchasing prices have gone down generally. C. N. A. Says the prices paid for sina garments produced in bangladesh have dropped slightly. But the company argues that it now does more than previously and has invested in training in bangladesh we got no reply to it from only a little primer sorrow ok perhaps for good reason we consult european statistics and figures put out by the bandra dish text an association both confirm a clear downward trend in wholesale prices for every 100. 00 kilos of Clothing Companies now pay 57. 00 less than in 2014 thats according to your a stat prices are being pushed down in bangladesh and as a result closed now cost less here in germany than they did 10 years ago. So how much can we buy for 50 euros well take the things back afterwards we go shopping for big clothing chains each time out 50 euros takes us a long way. Pretty much comes on top. 3 sweaters and 3 pairs of pants. The others in sebring and between 4 and 7 garments for 15 euros. No wonder our closets full. Final question to visitors. Are what percentage of new clothes do they think ends up in the garbage within one year. Benny and vincent think its about 4 or 5. 00 as wife 40 or 50 percent. Of the parents guessed that in germany about 30 percent of new clothing is discarded within a year. In reality its actually 60 percent. It would have i would only look at asian emily elsewhere and see how many clothes they have you want to whos going to wear all that demands if you have to ask why the textile industry doesnt just produce less. And why they cant estimate more accurately how much will actually be sold them off thats. The 60 percent includes over production and faulty goods that never go on sale. Textile be something fans are drowning in clogs this one alone receives 70 tons of stuff every day from across germany much of it is any suitable for cleaning ranks or ends up in the incinerator as the quality is too poor took off his estate thats been here and im but its obvious that people just arent thinking anymore about where their clothes come from how is it being produced are the working conditions fair and sustainable u. S. Experts say that even if new production ceased in tiny we would still have enough to clothe the entire global population for 10 to 15 years. Just to secure has worked here for nearly 20 years and news that a glance whats worth recycling. Stuff more than if you know you have highly fashionable items this jacket is new. Times childrens clothes a cheap brit brand new zine or clothes like these hugo boss apparel seconds or support legend us from another well known brand. To take from you find yourself thinking. Well just pray that we benefit from the stuff like that but if people are buying things and then throwing them away without ever having worn out. Every theyre just too well off easy. The most. We can track. It doesnt mean we have to stop loving fashion or not close it just means that when we treat ourselves to something new we need to appreciate that this illusion is to value what we hatched to buy less and as a result too moist less. To safeguard the future of our planet. And the People Living in countries like bangladesh. India. Cozies isnt it. Any in the designers are turning containers into clever and cheap made instantly. Their big idea is resource efficient and has enough space for everyone to take smaller like. 30 minutes. This is news coming to you live from berlin in the u. S. Millions vote in democratic president ial primaries and a super tuesday showdown former Vice President joe biden surges back to put a strong showing here across the map while senator Bernie Sanders looks set to back the biggest electoral prize california. Also coming up a sure

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