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literature and they invited the writer occasionally if he didn't have money because they appreciated the literature. where are we now compared to that? >> anthony: don't try that now, of course. today's new york café patrons spend both their time and their money on things like goose liver terrine. foie gras is everywhere in hungary, all over every menu, and it's good. real good. peter's going for the lamb ragu, a soup. >> peter: if you would look like a writer, they immediately would bring you a paper and ink. they would bring up the dictionary, whatever you were looking for. also, most people didn't have telephones at home and you could be called here, and you could get your mail. >> anthony: why do i want to attract writers? it's like, "i need more jazz musicians in my restaurant." they're -- deadbeats. >> peter: yeah, it was a different -- >> anthony: there's no money there. >> peter: it was a different time. it was not simply about the money. >> anthony: so it was about? >> peter: identity. yeah. >> anthony: we want to be the place that attracts the best and

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