numbering over 100. back in dynastic times, the emperors demanded variety in wives, of whom they would sometimes have over 100, and in food. the menus of the 19th century imperial palaces boasted new dishes every night. small, flavorful, and beautifully presented. and that culinary tradition which gave hue its reputation as a food capital continues today. how much of that persists, those imperial roots, that uh, need for variety? >> nguyen qui duc: yes, the tradition has stayed and will stay forever here, to cook all these different things all the time. >> anthony: we start with bird's nest soup, a delicacy to which i am usually immune. this one is unusually flavorful. these are swallow's nests from high up on cliffs, near nha trang. they're soaked in water, cooked in chicken stock, and served with crabmeat.