are caught in the crossfire to this day and try and figure out what is it that the world could be doing better this time, paula. >> incredible reporting. nima el bag ir, thank you. "going home: the war in sudan" is next. good night, ukraine for more than a year and conflict has once again broken out in the middle east, there is another often overlooked battle happening right now in sudan. in april, a paramilitary group called the rapid support forces, or rsf, began fighting the sudanese army for control of the country. now so far, thousands of people have been killed, and more than 5 million have been displaced, according to the un. that means, on average, roughly, 30,000 people are fleeing their homes every day. among those lucky enough to make it out have been the family of cnn's chief international investigative correspondent nima elbagir. she's not been back to her home country in more than a year after rsf-linked authorities issued a sealed indictment against her because of her reporting on them. so what is motivating the rsf? and how are they able to sustain such a large and drawn-out conflict? very few western news organizations have been allowed into sudan since the war began, but nima and her team made it back inside. and over the next hour, she takes us on a deeply personal journey, as she sees for herself what this power struggle has done to her country. some of what you're about to see in this hour may be disturbing. [music playing] nima elbagir: getting very, very close. nima elbagir (voiceover): for the entirety of my career as a journalist, i've covered war-- nima elbagir: cnn. we're cnn. nima elbagir (voiceover): --and the pain and devastation it inflicts. nima elbagir: you just really get hit by the desolation, the devastation. nima elbagir (voiceover): but this war, this pain, it's personal. i've been covering sudan for over 20 years, first as a young reporter at the very start of my career, then as an experienced journalist, witnessing a popular revolution overthrow the country's longstanding dictator, seeing people i love taste democracy-- [explosion] --only to watch as military leaders wrenched back control and mourning their loss alongside them. now some of those very same military leaders are fighting each other for the ultimate prize-- to rule sudan alone, unchallenged. sudan is where i was born, but it's also where my family were forced to leave only a few weeks ago. most are trying to flee, but we need to get in. we need to see for ourselves what's been happening. you can't just fly to the capital anymore. we need to be creative. the fighting is focused on two areas, the capital khartoum, and the west of the country in el geneina, darfur. the only way in for us is to travel to south sudan, starting in the small village of renk, which has been hosting refugees. from here, we need to cross the border and try to get to khartoum, but again, nothing is straightforward. much of the capital is occupied by the paramilitary group, the rapid support forces, better known as the rsf. they don't want me or any western journalists to document their atrocities. so we'll have to take an 800-mile journey northeast to port sudan, where we've been promised a flight to the capital. but khartoum tells us only part of the story, of the tragedy unfolding in sudan. troubling stories from el geneina in sudan's western darfur region are trickling out. subject: [speaking non-english] nima elbagir (voiceover): stories of systematic rape, ethnic cleansing, and now even slavery. subject: [speaking non-english] nima elbagir (voiceover): shedding light on this tragedy for the world to see is what's pushing me to go back. but it's also my home and where many of my extended family still live. i haven't seen them in a long time. i want to see how they're doing, if they're all right, and how the people of sudan are coping in the face of this terrible civil war. subject: our neighbor was shot. nima elbagir (voiceover): it's hard, though. we're here just two months into the fighting, and the world has already turned its back on those impacted. our journey begins in renk, where many of the 2.8 million people who have fled the war in sudan crossed over. desperate, tired, and hungry, many end up here, a holding camp run by aid agencies near sudan's border with south sudan there are around 15,000 people in the camp on any given day, and no one here knows how long they'll have to stay. aid agencies say they're trying to help, but there's not enough food, not enough clean water, and not enough medicine. nima elbagir: what you see behind me here is one of only two meal distributions a day. this is the first time anybody in this camp has gotten to eat this morning, and it's already around 11 o'clock. it's chaotic. it's painful to watch because the reality is that most of those people back there are not going to get to eat. they're going to cue with their empty bowls and plates, and they may not be able to take anything back to their families. every single day, a child dies here in this camp. and it's because of these conditions. absolutely awful. subject: most of these people, they have been here for at least two months. nima elbagir (voiceover): [inaudible] has been at the camp for a month now, and he stepped up as a community leader for the people here. back home in khartoum, he was a high school headmaster, teaching english literature. subject: our people are suffering mostly from diarrhea. they are dying every day with diarrhea. they are dying every day and night, mostly children. we have never spent a day without losing a child here. nima elbagir (voiceover): and yet life goes on. it must. people are having to figure out how to survive and look after their families without knowing what their futures hold. nima elbagir: there's one family over there where the mother gave birth just five days ago here in the conditions that you can see around us. so we're going to go over there and check in on her. they want me to hold him. [speaking non-english] this is david duda his mother, bakhita says that she named him david. that was her choice. it's a name she loves. and his middle name is after his grandfather. [speaking non-english] he's going to be a tall child. [speaking non-english] bakhita wanted to show us this. this is all she has to feed david from because she can't produce her own milk. she's not been able to breastfeed. it's been 10 days now. so she's really, really worried about the baby because this is what little formula they were able to find for them here. it's gone. nima elbagir (voiceover): while bakhita fights for her newborn, another young mother grieves the loss of her only son. a simple grave, it's all they can do now to bring some dignity in these harsh conditions. the family can barely speak. there are no words to describe the pain of the loss of a child. the only visible markings that this is a cemetery, a few rudimentary wooden posts and the freshly disturbed piles of earth that cover this desolate field, so far from loved ones' homes. we need to go into sudan and see for ourselves how the country is being affected by the conflict. we've been hearing horror stories of war crimes in the capital. the city has been devastated. some of my family have stayed behind. i'm desperate to see them and, with a bit of luck, to go in and see my family home, which has been taken over by the rsf, a paramilitary army gone rogue. it's time we cross the border into war-torn sudan. ic playing] we are heading north on a long and perilous journey into sudan. very few western media organizations have been allowed in since the war broke out between the sudanese army and the rsf, killing untold thousands and displacing millions. we're trying to get to the capital, khartoum, one of two major areas where the fighting is concentrated. khartoum is also where my family home is, but it's too dangerous to drive there directly, so we're having to travel northeast to circumnavigate the rsf and get to medani, the closest city with a sudan army presence. we've been warned to stay on the main roads to avoid any checkpoints controlled by the rsf. they don't want us in sudan. i've got history with them, especially with their leader. nima elbagir: [speaking non-english] this is commander mohamed hamdan. nima elbagir (voiceover): mohamed hamdan dagalo, a former warlord better known as hemedti, now commander of the rsf. 15 years ago, as a young journalist, i filmed with hemedti and his men when he was identified by eyewitnesses as a leader of the infamous arab militia group, called by their victims janjaweed, "devils on horseback." subject: [speaking non-english] nima elbagir (voiceover): the janjaweed became notorious for terrorizing non-arab tribes and committing such heinous acts towards them that, in 2007, the united states declared the killing spree a genocide. this war wasn't just about territory. it was also about ethnicity. and hemedti's story doesn't end there. that well-worn playbook that hemedti and the janjaweed learned back then, terrorizing, raping, and killing, is now being used again in the same region, darfur. only this time, the janjaweed are an official fighting force, the rsf, who are currently in a battle against the sudanese army for dominance. today, as you can see from this aerial view, the displacement, the killing, the murder of those from non-arab tribal groupings, is worse than it has ever been. towns and villages raised to the ground, disintegrated, disappeared from the map. if hemedti wins, there is a chance sudan may never know peace in my lifetime. and i, like so many others, may never see home again. but for now, we've managed to cross the border. nima elbagir: it's taken us about three, four hours just to get three, four kilometers up the road and to cross from the republic of south sudan into the republic of sudan. but we have done it, and we're across the border. and honestly, i can't quite believe it. it feels pretty amazing to be home. we were asked to swap vehicles from the pickup trucks we were in to what's supposed to be a little bit of a more low profile car with blacked out windows. however, it's low profile, but they're blaring sudanese pop music. you can hear it in the background. [sudanese pop music] nima elbagir (voiceover): spirits are high, and everyone's feeling good. we can hardly believe it. we've made it into sudan. but the music quickly gets tiresome, and a trip that should have been a maximum of seven hours is now going on and on. the longer we stay on the road, the more vulnerable we are to bandits. and as the sun sets, our situation becomes more precarious. to make matters worse, comms are intermittent so it's difficult to pinpoint our position. i wouldn't say we're lost, but-- crew: i know we're headed north, so we're going in the right direction. whether or not this is the road that we need to be on [inaudible]. i'm going to try and have a look at the map, actually. nima elbagir: we've just been held at almost every single checkpoint, despite all the assurances we were given. it's now 10 o'clock at night, and we're still hour and a half before our destination. every moment that we are delayed, it gets more and more dangerous. nima elbagir (voiceover): and delayed again and again and again. it's past 11 o'clock at night, and our producer, barbara, is trying to find the team a place to stay. our hotel reservation was canceled. barbara: we're four people, so, yeah, even if it's like one room and we all sleep on the floor, it doesn't matter at this stage. nima elbagir (voiceover): luckily, we managed to get in touch with a distant cousin of my father's, who allows us to bed down in her new, not yet furnished home. the team is exhausted. we need to get some sleep. this is wad madani, the closest city to khartoum. its population has swelled by thousands since the war began. nima elbagir: madani has always been a major city. in fact, it was the cradle of sudan's independence movement from the british. now it's being called upon once more. and this time, it is to provide safe haven for the sudanese fleeing the country's capital. nima elbagir (voiceover): dust, pollution, heat, just utter chaos. for now, the markets are full, but prices have skyrocketed as people live with the constant threat of an rsf invasion. in the market, we meet iman from khartoum. she arrived in medani only a few days ago. the violence she tells us is indiscriminate. subject: our neighbor was shot. so my parents say to us, we have to come from madani because it's not safe here anymore. so that brought me here. i actually didn't want to come here, but life is life. everyone is suffering from this war, and it's been terrible. nima elbagir (voiceover): some of the onlookers begin telling the young people to not speak to us, to not sell out their country to foreigners. nima elbagir: we actually had to walk iman and her friend soufian a little bit away from that crowd that was starting to gather. and it was really clear that there is a tension. there's a tension between those in madani who've seen their standard of life get more expensive, who are now suddenly having to push their way through traffic like this almost every day, and the people who are coming from khartoum. it's not that people don't want to host people. it's just that they're feeling those consequences in their lives. nima elbagir (voiceover): every sudanese is feeling the effects of this conflict in some shape or form. back at the house where we're staying, i meet someone i love dearly. nima elbagir: [speaking non-english] nima elbagir (voiceover): my uncle, baba aarif i haven't seen him for about a year since a sealed indictment was issued against me by rsf-linked authorities in retaliation for a previous investigation. subject: [speaking non-english] nima elbagir: i'm going to ask you the question everybody wants to know, are you going to leave? subject: leave where? nima elbagir: sudan. subject: why? why should i leave? nima elbagir: are you going to let us evacuate you? subject: why should i leave? nima elbagir: because it's dangerous. subject: if war happens and i happen to be in any part of the world, as a physician or as a surgeon, i can do some help. if people needs it, i'm not going to leave. why should i leave? i have 50 years of experience in surgery. i leave them? come on. this cannot be. why the whole world is thinking like that? i was brought up like this. think about the others. whatever you can do to help them, do it. and this war is going to end. and everybody is worried. sudan is going to, again, again. nima elbagir: it's going to rise? subject: rise. this is going to happen. we africans can do that. and i'm sure. nima elbagir: so what do you need? what do you need from the world? subject: the world? nima elbagir: yeah, what do you need? you're saying you're risking your life-- subject: first of all, they have to make all the efforts possible to stop the war. nima elbagir: i'm so proud of you. we're worried, but we're proud of you. subject: yeah, it's ok. nima elbagir (voiceover): i understand why he's doing this, but the idea that i'm going to leave him behind is incredibly hard. still, i am so proud of what he represents, the risks that so many sudanese are taking to save each other and their country. baba aarif wants to show us a hospital nearby where some of the medics he's trained are currently working under extreme conditions. there is very little medicine. even oxygen is running low. the doctors say often they have so little. the only thing they can do is try and give people comfort. but there's not much comfort to be found. outside, we see an inconsolable family. her father has just died of an asthma attack. war doesn't just kill people quickly at the front line. it slowly strangles the rest of the country. we need to get back on the road to see what's happening elsewhere. but before we go, my family has invited us for a get-together. not everyone here is from madani. most of my family has been displaced. in fact, it's the first time that a lot of us have met one another. but everyone is so familiar. [non-english speech] nima elbagir: she's saying that i look like my aunt, who passed away. she was very beautiful. she had the tribal markings, the same as [inaudible].. [non-english speech] yeah, we're trying to compare her with my dad. [laughter] i'm getting a family history lesson. [laughs] nima elbagir (voiceover): and of course, it doesn't take long for everyone to start teasing each other. [non-english speech] even through the love and laughter, the war is constantly present and very much at the forefront of everyone's minds. nima elbagir: they have actually just come from khartoum. their house was occupied by the rsf. and he was working at one of the leading industrialist companies in khartoum. and they've had to come all the way out to madani and all stay here with his wife's mother's family because khartoum has just been overrun. nima elbagir (voiceover): as the night draws to a close, i feel so blessed. everyone has stories of people they've lost in the fighting, but they still find a moment to laugh, to enjoy each other, and to be grateful that they are together for another night. [music playing] it's a reminder of what's at stake here. khartoum may be where my family is suffering, but we're hearing a new front in the fighting has opened up. an ethnic cleansing campaign unleashed in darfur is intensifying. the rsf creating a stronghold, a fortress, which could expand into the heart of africa. how is this paramilitary group sustaining this fight on multiple frfronts? who is behind this? we need answers. it's time to continue our journey to the capital, whatever the risks. 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[music playing]. it's early morning, and we're back on the road. we wanted to follow the river nile north straight into khartoum, the fastest route in, but it's far too dangerous. the rsf controls a lot of the suburbs going into the city. sudan's armed forces is offering a flight into khartoum from port sudan, but it's a 600-mile drive away. we have to get there as fast as we can because of the volatility of the conflict. there are small windows of opportunity. if we miss it, we can't get in. but there are already delays. crew: we've still got 550k up to port sudan, six hours' driving time. nima elbagir: big distance. crew: yeah. nima elbagir: we were hoping to be further along, huh? crew: yeah, i mean, we're going to be driving in dark hours, but it is what it is. we've committed to it now, so we'll go with it. we probably shouldn't hang around here too long. feedback from the local security is that there may be a bit of lawlessness, banditry, that kind of stuff. and we would be considered vulnerable. nima elbagir: opportunistic insecurity. crew: exactly. nima elbagir (voiceover): it's a massive journey. sudan is the third largest country in africa. the closer we get to port sudan, where the regular army has more control, the more delays are created by their security. port sudan has become the de facto capital of sudan, so there's a strong military presence. as we travel into the night, we get news of an rsf sleeper cell being discovered in the city. they've locked it down, and we can't get in. we've been forced to stop for the night. we'll have to bed down in the open. nima elbagir: it's arou