Ive only been to milan a few times and always in passing. Ive never stayed here long enough to really get a sense of it. The first thing that strikes you about milan is its dynamism. No Wonder Espresso was invented here. I think i might need a few of these just to keep up with the rhythm of the city, but do the hardworking milanese bring as much to the italian table as they do to the Countrys Economy . Im stanley tucci. Im italian on both sides and im travelling across italy to discover how the food in each of this countrys 20 regions is as unique as the people and their past. Thats delicious. Here in milan, the menu is nothing like you expect. Up here in the north, forget about pasta and pizza. Oh my god, thats so beautiful. Perfecto. This is the land of rice and polenta. Polenta in the ancient time, it was like the bread. People from south of italy call us polentoni. Tucci there isnt even a tomato in sight. This is amazing. And Olive Oil plays second fiddle to butter. Butter, a lot of butter. Jesus. Woah, jesus. Warning irresponsible amounts of butter were used in the making of this program. Ok. I hate to say it but. We need more butter. Milan is the second biggest city in italy. Its the capital of lombardy a region in the north of the peninsula, the gateway to Northern Europe and all of the Trade Money that that brings. Sophisticated, elegant, and rich. Milan is the epicentre of design, fashion, and finance. The most iconic visual representation of Milans Power is its cathedral the biggest church in the whole of italy. This breathtaking Architectural Jewel with its forest of spires pointing upwards is the perfect metaphor for milanese ambition. Where are you taking Me Beppe . Its a very up. Just up. Its a good place. Yeah . One of my favourite italian writers has spent his whole life in milan. Beppe severgnini is a regular New York Times columnist. Milan loves the future. He is a master at explaining italians to the rest of the world and i want him to tell me all i need to know about milan. Welcome to milans first ever skyscraper. Even better, he has the keys to the most exclusive rooftop in the city. Its extraord its like a city unto itself isnt it . In miniature. Wow. Its amazing, its like a sandcastle in the middle of a european city. And this was started in the late 14th century and its never finished. Never. Never been finished. Ive been told that milan is always looking forward, more so than other italian cities. Absolutely, i love milan because the success of milan in my view is, you walk around and you actually hear all these fantastic italian accents from sicily to Trentino Alto Adige near the alps. Yeah. And all these young people coming from all over europe and bringing new ideas. What are the politics like here now . Its tricky. Its milan is centerleft, the rest of lombardy is solidly on the Right. Actually The League, which many people think can. You know The League can be very unpleasant, the leaders, but the voters of The League are alRight. But the good thing of milan is that normally in italy if you have a Rightwing region and a leftwing Town Theyll spend their time annoying each other, boycotting each other. And nobody wins. And nobody wins. In milan they decided, look, milan is more important and wealth is more important because milan, like the americans, oh they know about Money And Money is serious stuff here. Food is important, money is important. Whats the thing that separates the cuisine of lombardy . In milan its food for work its risotto, its cotolette, its meat its like something that will keep you going and keep working in the cold. Its more swiss or germanic almost in its. Dont say this to an italian. [laughs] no never, i would never do that. Never do that. Traditionally, food has never been a focus of this city i think people are probably too busy Making Money to worry about whats for dinner. Despite this, milan is a trailblazing city at heart, so in the past few years its become a culinary mecca. Cesare battisti is one of the chefs responsible for the milan food revolution. Hes at the helm of the Buzzy Ratana a restaurant thats been Making Waves on the gastronomic scene. Even though cesare is renowned for being innovative, nobody knows how to make milans classic dishes like him. Oh my god thats when that was the record they found . And there you have it proof that milan led the way in the invention of the schnitzel. Any dissenting austrian out there, please call me. Or call cesare actually, dont call me. So this is clarified butter. In this climate Olive Oil gives way to butter. Woah, jesus the King Ingredient of northern italian cooking. Smell that. Dry sunny fields of Olive Trees are replaced by fertile pastures irrigated by rivers and lakes, perfect terrain for cattle. When i was young we used to have Veal Cutlets every week. Love veal. I know youre not supposed to but i love it. I love it. Of course the Rearing Practices are much better now. Like this for instance. In this wealthy city humble rice is flavoured with a Spice Worth more than gold. Tucci so they used the saffron to color the Stained Glass Windows in the duomo. Those are very expensive windows. Yeah, Yeah. Tucci Oh My God thats so beautiful. Cesare for you. Cheers. Cheers. Proper. Its just that little bit thicker. Wiener schnitzel is so thin and it gets kind of dry. Its so perfectly moist. So good grazie. Youre welcome. Cesare unlocked some of the gastronomic secrets of this metropolis for me. But i hear that to get to the heart of it i may need to go underground. Front desk. Yes, hello. Im so. Please hold. I got you. All by yourself. 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People here are known for their unrivalled work ethic. They have always had to overcome inclement weather and build their livelihood on treacherous marshlands. The milanese work hard but they also play hard. Ive heard that within italy, milan is known as Milano Da Bere a city to drink. Its very, very cool because its raining its cold but italian people they always go to do aperitivo. Aperitivo is a postwork drink meant to whet your appetite, or Aprire Lappetitio as the italians say. Im here with Tess Masazza who is something of an expert on the subject. I was watching your stuff, so funny thank you. Oh my god, its just brilliant and you started doing it like five years ago Right . I started five years ago, Yes. Tess masazza is a milanbased social Media Sensation who is known for her ironic take on modern living. Half french, half italian, like so many other young people she now calls milan her home. Now we are going to a bar, a very special bar and they do amazing cocktails. Really . I dont know if you know, spritz. Is this the joint . Yes. Oh jesus. Oh my god we havent even had a drink yet. Spritz has taken the world by storm. Carefully. But it was originally the quintessential milanese drink. Tess hello. Buona sera. Tucci buona sera. Campari, its main ingredient is made here in milan. Tucci great, thank you. Tess thank you so much. Cheers. Cheers. Salute. Salute. Tess here, you have aperitivo with a drink and you can eat. Yeah. And you go Back hoMe And You dont have to cook. Tucci thats fine. Oh thank you. Oh theres the food. Tess so you eat and you are more hungry so you eat again. Every time you order a drink you get this . Its fantastic, Yes. Yeah. No, its amazing. Its amazing. A lot of milanese take their work so seriously that they hardly stop for lunch. No wonder they need an aperitivo at the end of their day. Luckily this led to a revolutionary Milanese Invention were all grateful for the happy hour. Milan is very famous also for the secret bars Yeah . And. I love it because its like in the movies because to enter you have to have a password. Oh i love that idea. So its like the old speakeasys. Absolutely like old speakeasys. But legal. Yes. [laughs] maybe, i dont know. Maybe . [laughs] tess has been given the password for a secret bar just behind the cathedral. Tess its just here. This is it. Tucci This Is It . And the password is the name of the witch once believed to be the protector of this neighbourhood. Tucci oh, i thought he was going to say no. Arima. Are you sure this is the Right place . I, i Yes it is. Yeah . Yeah. Tess hi. Oh hello. Buono sera. Thank you. This place is so hip it makes me want to be 20 again. Tess wow. You like it. Wow. Tucci Yeah i love it. Or 40 or even 50. 50 would be fine. Tess hi. Hello. Stanley. Nice to meet you. Youre welcome. Morris maramaldi is one of milans most indemand mixologists. Lets order a drink. What are you going to have . Tess i think, im gonna have the fresh mau. Tucci im gonna have the martini black saffron. Morris martini black saffron. Yes please. Hes known for creating incredible drinks with a twist. They are sitespecific. Oh wow. Oh i see its black. Morris has invented a drink to honour the history of this building. Thats beautiful. This was once the residence of coal workers. Remarkably, despite being among milans poorest residents, they all survived the catastrophic plague of 1630. They thought it was her. They thought it was the witch but it was the coal . To protect it was the coal. So this is gonna keep me very healthy . Thats the best martini ive had in a very long time. Thank you. Wow. And you came to milan when . Im sorry. Thats ok. Tucci no dont let him in. I wouldnt let that guy in. Its really interesting, theres a Forwardthinking Aspect to this city more than ive seen in other italian cities. So many people. Tess they all come from everywhere, all over. Yeah, because theres a lot of work. Youre fantastic, youre just fantastic. They grow from our imagination, but they cant be held Back. They want to be set free. To make the world more responsible, and even more incredible. Ideas start the future, just like that. Today lets paint with behr ultra Scuff Defense. So that you can live that scufffree life. Honey, im home from my really important job Scuff Defense. Honey Scuff Defense. [ chuckles ] Scuff Defense i love our scufffree life. You too, scruff defense. Today lets paint with the interior paint thats too tough to scuff. Behr. Exclusively at the home depot. Milan is one of the Fashion Capitals of the world. The Love Affair between Milan And Fashion goes Back to the middle ages when the city was already known for the production of luxury garments. When milan became the centre of the postwar economic boom, here was where ordinary italians learned to dress. Milan spearheaded the revolution that was pretaporter, ready to wear. I love fashion, always have. Every movie i do, almost, i like to have people dressing. I think its a really beautiful process. I feel very lucky because today ive been invited to meet one of the most successful Fashion Families in italy. The missonis are known for their instantly recognizable colorful knitwear their vibrant patterns have revolutionized the fashion world. This multigenerational dynasty built its success on the local Textile Manufacturing expertise. 30 miles northwest of milan next to their factory in sumirago is their family home. Buongiorno. Rosita buongiorno i was going out. Tucci lets go. Rosita follow me. Tucci of course, ill follow you anywhere. Im here for lunch. And thats for the mushrooms . But it seems like i am going to have to work for it. 88 year old rosita missoni, the matriarch of the empire, is taking me on a treasure hunt. Rosita careful, eh . Dont walk on my mushrooms. Tell me about when you had your show in 1967. Yes. They gave us 16 models and they didnt have the Right underwear. So i said you have to take off your bra. I did it spontaneously because they had nice breasts so i didnt see a problem. So when the girls walked out on the runway with the light the clothes were transparent and they wrote missoni a crazy Horse Collection on the pitti palace runway. It was a Coup Detat [laughs]. It was not calculated. You mistakenly changed fashion. Exactly. Thats fantastic. This is what my grandfather used to do. Rosita is a veteran forager. There are many varieties of Edible Mushrooms in lombardy but for todays meal, shes only interested in porcini. Rosita no. What are those . No. No. No. No. Thats poisonous. Tucci is that one . No. No luck today. But you never know, thats the pleasure of finding mushrooms because its the surprise, the emotion. Luckily, were not relying on our pickings. Whos cooking today . Is it your grandson . He said hes going to cook mushroom for us. Oh nice. Ok good. Rositas Grandson Francesco is so obsessed with his familys cooking that hes even written the missoni cookbook. His mother angela now runs the company and shes just come over from the nearby factory to join us in the kitchen. Francesco hello. Mum, angela. Tucci Ciao. Angela hi. Angela Ciao stanley, welcome. Tucci hi, how are you . We will leave her now because shes the master. Tucci Shell Kick you out anyway. Francesco Yeah, Yeah. Tucci this was my job when i was a kid. My mother would give me the mushrooms and i would have to brush them off. Not ones we found, ones we bought but that was my job. What are you making . Angela polenta. And what we do and this is the recipe of the house, i dont know where it comes from, we put in the water a piece of garlic. It will leave a flavour. Yeah, Yeah, thats nice, Yeah. But you know a lot about the food of lombardy, this area. Polenta in the ancient times, it was like the bread. You eat it warm with meat if youre lucky or you would have eaten it with cheese, or you would eat it just with butter. Or my favourite dish as a child was polenta e latte, Warm Polenta and cold milk. You know, people from south of italy call us from north of italy polentoni because we eat polenta. Oh is that true, really . Angela usually you accompany it with juice and in this case we have e un brasato. Braised with wine, onions, carrots, celery. Its been cooked for hours and hours at a really low temperature. Tucci my god, it just falls apart. Angela we are also having pheasant, which is a rural tradition. Tucci oh wow, this is beautiful, Yeah. Im cooking now the mushroom, Olive Oil, a bit of garlic. Tucci well this is like a perfect autumn meal. Gorgeous. Lunch is nearly ready, but before we sit down to feast angelas taking me for a peek around the house. Not too shabby. Angela [laughs] you look at this room, its not that everything is missoni but its like, if we look for things which are part of our world, you look at this painting and you can say, oh Yes, this is part of the missoni world. No, its a severini painting, Right . Yeah, Yeah. Its extraordinary. And you grew up here . Yeah. Wow. Nobody ever moved. And even the kids, the third generation, they left and then they all came Back. Then they came Back. Thats nice. Francesco welcome to the family. Tucci thank you so much, thank you. Francesco Grandmas House is like a. Tucci . The hub of conviviality. One of the perks of living close by is that the whole family can drop in for lunch at grandmas. All three generations come together to share meals regularly. How many of you are involved in the business . One, two, three, four so six. But enough shop talk. As if by magic we were all drawn to a beautifully laid out table. Tucci so, polenta. Oh and you wrap it in this. Oh thats lovely. Angela i made a point of doing all the traditional dishes from the house, like brasato, fagiano. Francesco at least once a year, we have this. Tucci Yes, and lots of that beautiful sugo, Oh My God, look at that. Oh my god. This is very exciting. The pheasant is incredible because so many times you eat pheasant it can be so dry. With this sauce, its really, really juicy and this is amazing. When you come home for lunch and youre working, what do you eat usually . She had guests on sunday, we might have that on monday. Might have the leftovers on a monday . Thats not so bad. Rosita this is a typical sunday lunch. The brasato with the polenta and the mushrooms literally melted in my mouth. Its always a real privilege learning a familys home recipes and their kitchen secrets. The sun is shining. I know, i know, and im coming Back for breakfast. This family clearly take their Food Traditions as seriously as their fashion creations. Thats great. Mm. man so when in doubt, just say, let me talk to my manager. Next, carvanas 100 online shopping experience. Oh, man. Carvana lets people buy a car get this from their couch. Oh, how disruptive. No salesman there to help me pick out the car i need. How does anyone find a car on this site without someone like us Checking In . Shes a beauty, huh . Oh, golly laughter i can help you find the color you want. That sounds nice. Let me talk to my manager. vo buy your next car 100 online. With carvana. [ Me And You by barry Louis Polisar ] Me And You just singing on the train Me And You listening to the rain Me And You we are the same Me And You have all the fame we need indeed, you and me are we Me And You singing in the park Me And You, were waiting for the dark its snowing. Thats very exciting. The geographical diversity of lombardy is astonishing. Within a few miles from milan, the Landscape Changes dramatically. It could snow every day as far as im concerned. Here in the orobic alps, youre in a different world. Different culture, different values, different pace. No milanese in a rush would have the patience to do what it takes to create the local culinary delicacy. In the village of Gerola Alta they are prepared to wait for more than a decade for their cheese to mature. Paolo ciapparelli has devoted his whole life to bitto, a 2,000yearold type of cheese so expensive it was never eaten by those who made it. Wow. And it became the local currency. Each of these Cheese Wheels can cost up to 850, making it one of the most expensive cheeses in the world. Wow. The secret to this extraordinary cheese is that its made from the milk of cows that graze on Alpine Grass at different altitudes throughout the summer. Can you tell by the smell . Really . Thats amazing. Paolo saved this cheese from extinction when European Regulation led to cows being given industrial feed in addition to grass from the mountain pastures. This is a cheese to meditate upon. Oh my god. Its quite beautiful. Oh my god. 12 years . He says it opens up his heart. Wow, wow. Its delicious. This incredible cheese would not exist were it not for the hard work of a Nearextinct Community of alpine herders. Cheers. Thank you. Paolos determination to protect their tradition is inspiring and now i am inspired to cook with this cheese. Anyway, i think its time to feed the film crew, who have been watching me eat all day. I dont know who these people are. Paparazzi in italy, they follow you everywhere. Im going to make them one of my favourites pizzoccheri, a very special kind of noodle. Ive never made it because there isnt a lot of wheat in this area, they use buckwheat which is indigenous. Its been one of lombardys top culinary delights for over 500 years and Rightly so. I cant get enough of it. So now, savoy cabbage. Sort of cut almost like the pizzoccheri themselves. Then the potatoes. Like all northern dishes, it requires lots of butter. I love this. And now of course, paolos cheese. Ok, i hate to say it but we need more butter. Thats why nobody who eats pizzoccheri lives beyond the age of 35. See all that nice cheese melted in there. Ok everybody just come and pick. Thats enough pizzoccheri for like A Thousand people. Jamie, ja jamie, give me the camera. You eat. Do you like it . Jamie i like it. Thanks very much. Tucci oh, theyre eating it. The crew is exhausted, theyre ravenous and theyre lapping it up but will my efforts stand the test of the locals . The family that owns the lodge were staying in have offered to be my judges, including the octogenarian patriarch. Very good. [laughs] buonissimo. Dont say that because im famous. Oh thats really good. No, no, oh no. Now im very nervous. Its a good sign if hes not saying anything. Thats the best compliment anybody could ever have. [laughs] id like to think its my culinary talent that made this dish so successful but my instinct is its paolos cheese. Thats delicious. Im so glad that paolo saved this cheese from extinction. I defy anyone who tries pizzoccheri with bitto not to become a cheese outlaw. Lets make lots of Money Youve got the brawn ive got the brains lets make lots of uh uh uh oohhh theres a lot of opportunities with allstate, drivers who switched saved over 700. Saving is easy when youre in good hands. Allstate click or call to switch today. Allstate you need an ecolab scientific clean here. And you need it here. And here. And here. Which is why the scientific expertise that helps Operating Rooms stay clean is now helping the places you go every day too. Seek a commitment to clean. Look for the Ecolab Science certified seal. Did you know Prilosec Otc can stop frequent heartburn before it begins . Heartburn happens when Stomach Acid refluxes into the esophagus. Prilosec otc uses a unique Delayedrelease Formula that helps it pass through the tough Stomach Acid. It then works to turn down acid production, blocking heartburn at the source. 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Oh really . Yes, Yes. And for that job i travel around europe, Middle East and after, i came Back to como and decided with a few friends to stay together to work to help the lake. The few friends turned into an association of 600 fishermen. Thats a nice one. Yes that is a nice one. They made it their job to help the local government enforce Fishing Limits across the lake. You can only keep fish that are more than 6 inches long and in limited quantities. Are people trying to stop fishing on the lake . Is that what people want to do . Whats going on is global warming. The Lakes Ecosystem has started to have trouble and we have to do something to change the system. These fish that come from these lakes are really crucial to the diet here for centuries. Exactly, you know our tradition is. Its fantastic. Were gonna fish Right . Im very excited. I love fishing. I never catch anything but i love fishing. Today you will. Today i will, i hope. I hope. William and down. How do you know when you can you you can feel it . William Yeah, you feel it. Tucci you feel the nibble. And when you feel ah, maybe you have. I think you have. Yes you have. This is a nice one. [laughs] i could feel it. This is a nice one. William [cheering] three tucci thats what im talking about. William who is the president . Dont cut this sequence, make sure its in one shot so they know. William you are invited to my place. Id like to teach you how to cook the Riso Con Pesce persico. Im very, very excited. Ive heard that, like many people outside milan, william supports The League, A Political Party born here in lombardy demanding the independence of the north from the south. Its leader Matteo Salvini has polarized the country with his extreme antiimmigration views. William this is the complicated moment to clean. Tucci just going up the spine. Ill have to find the Right moment to broach the subject while we cook. William now you cut the head. Tucci so you dont cook the whole fish . William you can but we keep our tradition. In como, you know, you move just 10 kilometers and everything changes. This is the nice and difficulty of italy. I think its something that is the italian dna. We say, its not difficult to govern the italians [laughing] you understand . Tucci now were gonna cook it. William we need butter. A lot of butter. Woah jesus Yeah. William sage here, with the butter and with the garlic. So tell me about the political climate in italy now. Its very difficult to make a good government for all the italians. Right. William . Because something that is good in the south maybe is not good in the north. Mr. Salvini is one politician that is born from Lega Nord and Step By step, he start to grow also in the south. You worked all over the world what do you think about Salvinis Attitude towards immigrants . In italy we dont have the system to bring these people and help these people. But salvini says, dont bring these people in at all, stop them completely no matter what, even if they drown, even if were not even gonna let them off the boat. I can understand limitations on immigration but its very hard to swallow the idea of saying there are children and women, maybe pregnant women, and were not going to let them off the boat. Yes stanley, i agree with you. William why today i have to say no more people here because there is not enough space. We would like to have good drink, good food, dont like to fight, it is not in our dna. Beautiful. You speak about Salvini You have to speak about rice. Come on, not some politician, you are italian. If you dont agree, you dont have to go out from this house. I wanted to talk to you about it because i agree that there do have to be rules in place. However, one of the Reasons America is the way it is today is because it accepted millions of italian immigrants. And that is what i think thats the issue i have with salvini because what were doing is were making an attempt to regulate The Human Instinct of saving people. My what why salvini try, because you know mm, its really good. Oh my god. Next time well invite salvini, i know him. You do . Yeah. Is he a nice guy . Yes, like me. Hmm, im not so sure i would like to come Back and meet salvini, but id be very happy to come Back and see william again. I was surprised william suggested that as an italian i should care more about food than politics, because i believe the two things are connected, hospitality can also be a political choice. Needles. Essential for sewing, but maybe not for people with certain inflammatory conditions. Because there are options. Like an unjection. xeljanz. The first and only pill of its kind that treats moderate to severe rheumatoid arthritis, psoriatic arthritis, or moderate to severe Ulcerative Colitis when other medicines have not helped enough. Xeljanz can lower your ability to fight infections. Before and during treatment, your doctor should check for infections, like tb and do blood tests. Tell your doctor if youve had Hepatitis B or c, have flulike symptoms, or are prone to infections. Serious, sometimes fatal infections, cancers including lymphoma, and Blood Clots have happened. Taking a higher than recommended dose of xeljanz for ra may increase risk of death. Tears in the stomach or intestines and serious allergic reactions have happened. Needles. Fine for some. But for you, theres a pill that may provide symptom relief. Ask your doctor about the pill first prescribed for ra more than seven years ago. Xeljanz. An unjection. tucci are you happy to be Back in Lake Como . Felicity of course i am, its amazing. Tucci this is where we met. Have you got some poetry . Not on me. I tried to come to Lake Como without my wife felicity, but she followed me. Its one of the most beautiful places i know you have the it sounds silly to say it. I love that you have, youve got this, the sun, the lake and then also just the snow peaks. Yeah. What is that Mountain Range over there . Thats the beginning of the alps. As much as felicity and i love spending time here by the lake, there is a place in milan i want to show her thats doing something extraordinary. A restaurant in the centre embodies the Spirit And History of milan like almost nowhere else. Angelo bissolotti is the mastermind behind osteria del treno, a haven for the hardworking milanese in an historical venue. Felicity nice to meet you. When angelo acquired this place 30 years ago, his mission was to create an authentic osteria, accessible to everyone. You can have lunch here every day for less than 11, hang out in the afternoon, but in the evening this becomes a hotspot, celebrating the regions Finest Foods and entertainment. Oh my god, that looks delicious. We were joined by angelos nephew, francesco. This is nice. Yeah. And our mutual friend, the actress lella costa. Oh god, it looks amazing. Felicity my god. Tucci oh, beautiful. Angelo see . Yeah. Lella for a long time its been the only place where people could afford to go and eat out. It wasnt expensive. Right. Angelo couldnt have picked a better location for his osteria, as this place was created by the workers, for the workers. In italy, the first rail Workers Strike was claimed here in this place. A bit of their salary, they use it to help each other, they use it for a meeting hall, a place to have dances, to listen to music, to build this place. And in essence, they create a union. Yeah. Osso b uucco. With mashed potatoes. This is something for the workers. Tucci delicious, thats delicious. Angelo has brilliantly recreated the spirit of traditional osterias. Before i started this trip i never would have imagined such a place could exist in fashionable, moneydriven milan. This seems like A Million miles away from the nearby Stock Exchange the trendy bars, and the Luxury Brand stores. Here, in this milan, i recognise the power of the pioneers that changed the face of italy through sheer hard work. This place, for me, is living proof that conviviality can be a vehicle for social change. After all, most revolutions begin around a table. Thank you for joining us. You are watching a Special Edition of cnn newsroom. Im Cyril Vanier in falmouth, england, where World Leaders are getting set for the final day of the g7 summit. Im Robyn Curnow in atlanta a new israeli coalition could put an end to Benjamin Netanyahus 12year grip on power. That vote in the knesset hours away. A euro 2020 Football Star collapses on the pitch and needs to