Sicily is a mythical land of contrasts fire and water, dry and fertile, refined thats very french and rough. How did one of the poorest regions in europe i love it create the richest of cuisines . Get ready. This is delicious. I want to take a bath in it. Every mouthful here is an eruption of flavor. Oh my god theyre so good. Oh my god before i arrive in sicily, there is one Delicious Food ritual that i have to experience. Its a tradition to eat these while youre on a boat passing this statue of the madonna. These are arancini. Look at that. These beautiful little cones are rice with saffron, peas, meat. The story goes that the arabs brought these to sicily in the 19th century, handrolled rice with a meat filling, breaded and fried. Thats good. The taste of arancini i am told is the taste of home for all sicilians. Just a few miles off the toe of the boot of italy lies sicily, its southernmost region. And with Volcanic Soil so fertile, its nickname is gods kitchen. But sicily is also said to be home to the gates of hell. Impoverished for centuries, conquered by everyone from the arabs to the french and haunted by its mafia connections, the locals have learned to make the most of what they got. In this fiercely traditional region, things are changing, and i want to discover the effect its having on the food. Classic cuisine is harnessing the power of simple ingredients and allowing them to shine. Dont mistake uncomplicated for bland. Seafood and vegetables and pasta only need a Little Olive Oil and salt to reveal their sublime qualities. Just outside the capital palermo in a seaside town called bagheria, an amazing selftaught chef has built his reputation on the basics. Tony lococo left school at 1 to work with his dad, making Stained Glass for churches. But he fell in love with food and now owns a michelinstarred restaurant called i pupi. I see. Tony is fishing his version of thesis a cillian classic spaghetti alla bottarga. Oh, i see. It creates a little texture to it which helps the sauce stick to it which ends up giving everything a better flavor. What could be more italian than spaghetti, right . Well, wrong. Its said spaghetti was invented by the arabs who brought it a thousand years ago. But the arabs ate their spaghetti with raisins and cinnamon, very different to the savory dishes of today, like this one. Bottarga is a solid block of dried fish eggs, tuna in this case. Tony is so proud of his signature dish, he named it spaghettony. Garum, this is like what the romans used to make. Right. This is the secret to the flavor. This gives it the intensity. Garum is sort of like roman ketchup, sort of. Maybe. Tony adds lemon zest, sicilian, of course, and an avalanche of bottarga. On top he adds salted dehydrated fried capers for crunch and dried breadcrumbs ground down with anchovies, which is called mollica. This is the mollica people used to use by the sea because they did not have cheese. This in essence took the place of cheese. Come on thats beautiful. God damn it. I love it. [ laughter ] thank you. Thats so good. Oh my god thats so good. Oh my god [ laughter ] the soul of your restaurant is taking really simple food of sicily and elevating it. Yes. Si, si, si. It turns out tony is a culinary linguist. Jesus. I feel guilty. I just love this idea. I want to live with you. Tony created something that a lot of people arent able to create. He is able to take these traditional foods and elevate them. He loves where he comes from, and he just wants to make everything better. It is not a bad trait. Stanley tucci searching for italy brought to you by johnnie walker. Keep walking. [sfx psst psst] allergies dont have to be scary. Spraying flonase daily stops your body from overreacting to allergens all season long. Psst psst all good germ proof your car with armor all disinfectant. Kills 99. 9 of bacteria and viruses. Antibacterial or moisturizing body wash . 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Boost Glucose Control products contain high quality protein and key nutrients to support immune health. Try boost. Look at that little cluster of buildings up there. All these old abandoned farms. In the southeast of the island, the picturesque baroque town of vittoria rises surrounded by stark hilly fields. This area is known for its grapes, and im parched. So im in the right place. Sicily has a reputation for being a traditional rather macho society. So until recently, winemaking, like many professions here, was controlled by men. But the winemaker im about to meet is definitely bucking the trend. This is 38yearold arianna occhipinti. So tell me everything. Today we are almost at the harvest. So im going Checking Vineyards and see how the grape is going to be ripe. Right. What is the grape . The grape of the area are frappato and nero davilo. Nero davilo is a very common grape in sicily . Yes. This is the grape you can find in all the highlands. These two were the grape i wanted to work because indigenous, not international. Right. Sicily is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world, but its wine is often thought to be too bold. Perhaps fine to blend with other wines, but nothing to be celebrated on its own. But arianna is said to be developing a more delicate vintage. Its not ripe yet, but its almost ripe. I see if the seeds are still brown or green and still green, not enough. What should bit . Should it be brown. It should be brown. Yeah. So now it needs another 15 days. It is sweet. It is good. It is sweet. Its actually much sweeter than i thought it was going to be. Yeah. Next to ariannas vineyard lie abandoned farms. A reminder that sicily has the worst Unemployment Rate in italy. Thousands of young Sicilians Have left the island in search of work. So you had a lot of friends who left. Yes. Where did they go . What did they end up doing . They moved to milan, parma, bologna, to work in engineering, economy. The agriculture was something to abandon that was not giving happiness and opportunities. So the farm ends up shutting down or the vineyard ends up shutting down . Yes. Reporter arianna was inspired by the potential of the southern sicilian soil. In this vineyards, limestone is giving a lot of perfume, flavor, acidity, elegance to the wine. Right. Her organic vines produce lower yields but fruitier varieties, and her varieties are deeply rooted in the local land. So youre from here . I grew up in vittoria. I discovered the wine when was 16 or 17 and decided to study in milano. My idea in the beginning when i left was not necessary to come back. But when i was in milan, i start to miss this land a lot. You can see everything with other highs. You can see the opportunities of this magic island, you know . Right. Ariannas dedication is evident in every aspect of her business. I decided to stock it here. I always wondered. We do only by hand. This is frappato grape. Its 100 frappato. This was my first label. So piece of art. Its your piece of art . Its my piece of art. Its beautiful. How many bottles do you make a year . 140,000. Wow. Do you want to taste something with me . Yes. I thought youd never ask. This is sp68, white. It is a blend of moscato we call zebibbo. Im hardly a wine expert, but i do know what i like and i like drinking it. This is delicious. And im going take a bath in it. Yes, yes. A lot of Sicilian Wines are quite heavy, but its light. Its light. Its nice. Its elegant. And when people drink frappato, they dont think its sicilian wine. Ariannas impressive achievements in the wine world come from her steely decision to choose the artisanal over the industrial. Thats really good. My mom give me very good value, always telling me i could be able to do something. And in a region where only a quarter of women have joined the workforce, her success is nothing short of revolutionary. Did you find it difficult, particularly as a young woman to start a business . When i was 21, nobody was believing that i could work in the vineyards or have knowledge around the agriculture. So i remember for me the most difficult side was to convince people to work with me. After ten years of work, i start to see in the eyes of other people that what i was saying was correct. It was amazing, because, okay, now its your job. People believe in you. And they respect. And their respect, yeah. Because yeah, yeah, yeah. Well, thank you. Youre welcome. Thank you so much. Ariannas wine is groundbreaking, and i have no doubt that in the hands of people like her, this land will certainly flourish. Ill be right back. With moderate to severe Crohns Disease, i was there, just not always where i needed to be. Is she alright . I hope so. So i talked to my doctor about humira. I learned humira is for people who still have symptoms of Crohns Disease after trying other medications. 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The architecture is extraordinary. You know, a lot of it is mostly old structures, most of which is completely falling apart, but theyre so beautiful. It is not what i expected. It is kind of a revelation. I am excited to go through it and explore it. Palermo was first settled by phoenician traders in the 8th century bc. Then the arabs and the normans arrived or conquered. And these waves of migration created an incredibly beautiful city. It almost looks like new orleans. You look down, its like the French Quarter parts of it. But palermos beauty has come at a cost. This magnificent architecture is the legacy of wealthy land owners who built Grand Palazzos on the profits of their estates while their workers lived in poverty. When this system collapsed in the 19th century, workers moved out of the countryside and into the city where poor and rich now live side by side. Stanley. Grazie. Hidden behind this 400yearold door is a world ive never encountered. I have been invited to dinner by a real life princess. Stanley. Princess Stefania Di Raffadali is one of the last surviving members of a sicilian royal family. Nice to see you. Thank you very much. Im very happy to be here. The princess became a royal through marriage to a direct descendant of the norman conquest. This palace has been in her husbands family since the 16th century and is preserved like a living museum. How long were you married . We were married in 57. When did he pass away . Ten years ago. He loved this house very much so the only thing i can do is to keep it, to maintain it. Its absolutely beautiful. But as thrilled as i am to meet the princess, thats not the only reason i wanted to come here. I am on the hunt for the perfect timballo. Look at that, so pretty. A baked mold of pasta or rice with rich ingredients. Its a dish im obsessed with. Oh, wow. Every family has a different way of making it . Yes. And have i heard that maria, the princess chef is a much sought after authority on timballo making. Si. In my family we have our own version of this dish, and its the centerpiece of a film i made called big night back in the 1990s. So its macaroni macaroni. Garlic. Mozzarella. We have great fight. Really . Because the old recipe calls for sugar, but she doesnt like sweet things. She is always saying too much sugar. Maria is making three very different versions of her timballo for dinner. One with eggplant. One with rice. And this one with a pastry crust. Wow. Bellissima the princess son bernardo and her granddaughter alessandra are joining us for this rather formal dinner, complete with a whitegloved butler. Thank you. So this is the first one, which is eggplants with cheese. And the pasta. Tell me about the tradition of timballo. They came from french. All the families thought it was wrong to have a french cook. They brought, for example, bechamel. We have arab cuisine. This is what . 1856. 1850s. I find it fascinating that even this most sicilian of dishes has origins elsewhere. Does it remind you of the one your family made . Yeah. Huge amount of work. You need to make it with somebody. Okay. This one is rice, bechamel, cheese, and ham. Thats very french. Which is the best one for you . The eggplant. I can eat the entire. Its very funny. Which one is yours . I prefer the rice one. It is certainly fitting to be eating this dish in such an opulent and unique setting. I feel like i have stepped into a time machine to experience the origins of timballo. So tell me how palermo has changed. Now it has become international. Everybody is coming. I did notice when i went out last night, all these young people out, and it was much more youthful than i thought it was going to be. I have a lot of friends that come from france or germany, and i have seen people falling in love with palermo in a moving way. Right. There is something in the light of palermo. One of the reasons for palermos regeneration is the decline of the infamous cosa nostra, the mafia. I grew up in a period where politics and mafia was the same thing. Uhhuh. It was full of ruined palaces until the beginning of the 90s. You couldnt go inside the Circle Center because it was dangerous. And the connection between the mafia and the government is not as great as it once was . No. We had a civil war with the mafia and the killing of of the judges . Yes. Falcone and borsellino were judges who brought largescale legal action against the mafiosi. Exposing the governments support for the mafia. They paid the ultimate price for their bravery. Both men were assassinated within months of each other in palermo in 1992. From that moment, it started to change. To change. From the people. The people reacted. Those two judges was too much. That was a Turning Point . Yeah. Right. Its been a very memorable evening. 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Thousands arrive on these shores every year. I have come to the port to meet the Third Generation fisherman Beppe Bellechi who is bringing in the daily catch. So beppe beppe has been fishing here since he was 9, Catching Anchovies and elaichi, a sardine that was once the main form of sustenance in lampedusa. He has invited me for lunch. His wife rina is rumored to be one of the islands best cooks. Rina is preparing some traditional sicilian dishes with her daughter enza using some of the fish that beppe has just caught. Its so simple. All she does is dress the fish with a salsa verde, which is made of parsley, caper, olive oil and bread soaked in vinegar. Her second dish is more elaborate. Rina is Making Sarde A Beccafico which literally means fig pecker sardines. But the fig pecker is a bird, not a fish. For me, this dish embodies the full philosophy of sicilian cooking. If you cant afford the food of the aristocracy, make due with what you have got. Bon appetit thank you for having us. Grazie. Thats so good. With the salsa verde, its so simple but its absolutely delicious. She just said the fish is good. Delicious. But the sea that has provided us with this feast is also the arena of an ongoing tragedy. Over the last six years, it has claimed the lives of an estimated 18,000 Migrants Fleeing Poverty and war. As a fisherman, beppe has firsthand experience of this crisis. I just want to ask you about the immigrant situation, the migrant situation. In a country where migration is the leading political issue, Lampedusans Stand Out for their compassion. The whole island was nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize in 2014. Beppe has bravely saved migrants in the past, pulling them from the sea. But after a government clampdown, captains who saved them face fines and even imprisonment. The situation for refugees remains extremely precarious. I have come to whats known on the island as the boat graveyard, a place where refugee boats are discarded. The desperation has to be so profound to come across the ocean in a boat like that. We still see everybodys clothing left, shoes left. The integration of immigrants to a Society Makes that society so much better and stronger and richer and so much more interesting. To turn people away is not natural. Germ proof your car with armor all disinfectant. Kills 99. 9 of bacteria and viruses. [sfx psst psst] allergies dont have to be scary. Spraying flonase daily stops your body from overreacting to allergens all season long. Psst psst all good we know its going to take many forms of energy to meet the worlds needs while creating a Cleaner Future for all. At chevron, were lowering the Carbon Emissions intensity of our operations, investing in lowercarbon technologies, and exploring Renewable Fuels of the future. We work hard to care for the homes we love. But its only human. 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But there is a very good reason why catanians risk living so close to this volatile volcano. Because centuries of eruptions have created mineralrich soil which grows some of the finest fruits and vegetables in the world. Im here to visit a restaurant that uses this beautiful local produce to make classic sicilian dishes. Its owner is roberta capisci. Hello. Welcome. We can come this way. Okay. Robertas chef is making pasta alla norma, a sicilian favorite made with eggplant. It was named after opera norma composed by one of catanias famous sons, vincenzo bellini. So it is a famous sicilian dish and the recipe is from your family . Yes. It was a dish that usually is eaten in summer. Okay. We put some garlic with the oil, and after that, we put some aubergine, fry it. Eggplants are a gift left by the arab domination in the 9th century. And in sicilian cooking, they often replace meat because theyre cheaper and they grow everywhere. And then the tomato. Yeah, maybe for one hour so its more dense. Right. What kind of pasta you using . This one is like a macaroni. Of course, homemade freshcut macaroni. What else . And it wouldnt be a Norma Without Salty Baked Ricotta on top. What do you think . I love it. I love it. Its so simple. Its so delicate. Thank you. Oh my god, its so good. For the next dish, roberta has promised me something special. So we have donkey carpaccio. I never imagined or anyone else eating donkey. Its a donkey . Yes. It was a donkey . Yes. Its a kind of donkey that we have only in sicily. So its really particular. Donkeys are a favorite around here. This is delicious. Because theyve always been hardworking companions for sicilian farmers. The meat is sweet. Yeah. Believe it or not, its really good. Its like beef carpaccio, but even sweeter. Tell me about the big change you made in your life. I studied insurance law. And after i go to london, was an arrangement and it was a great experience. I think in the field of crazy, i think to come back to the thing that i love. So i love food and i love sicily. Yeah. And i love my family. So i opened the restaurant nine years ago. Wow. Yes. And the name of the restaurant . Tell me the name of the restaurant. Cumpari turiddu. Which means . Cumpari in sicilian language means friends more close to the family. Right. So when you go to the cumpari, you always find the door open and the really nice food. The idea is to create the same atmosphere that you can find in a sicilian home. Right. And everything that we have in our restaurant is only sicilian food and the wine. Everything from sicily . Everything. True to its name, the restaurant, like the house of a good friend, stays open all day. Which is unusual in this part of the world. Most places close between lunch and dinner. Are sicilians different than other italians . I think that we are different for i can say in italiano. Si, si. Yeah. Thank you. Like a true sicilian, robertas passion for life, family, and for this island has found a perfect expression in her food. Its just extraordinary. Its some of the best food probably that ive ever had. The food is great, but the Magic Ingredient that makes this restaurant so special is the wonderful sicilian hospitality. Which also helps take your mind off that active volcano looming nearby. [sfx psst psst] allergies dont have to be scary. Spraying flonase daily stops your body from overreacting to allergens all season long. Psst psst all good texmex. Texmex. Termites. Go back up hang on i am hanging on. Dont mess up your deck with texmex. Terminix. Hi. The only way to nix it is to terminix it. Germ proof your car with armor all disinfectant. Kills 99. 9 of bacteria and viruses. When a truck hit my car, the Insurance Company wasnt fair. I didnt know what my case was worth. So i called the barnes firm. I was hit by a car and needed help. I called the barnes firm, that was the best call i couldve made. Im rich barnes. Its hard for people to know how much their Accident Case is worth. Let our Injury Attorneys help you get the best result possible. The Barnes Firm Injury Attorneys call one eight hundred, Eight Million im staying in catania to explore some more. A busy Industrial Hub once known as the milan of the south, it has a growing migrant community. Catania is the Main Reception Center for newcomers in sicily, and this new wave of migration is already changing the city and its food. Emanuela runs a supper club where young refugees and migrants cook the food from their homelands and share their stories. Joy, from nigeria, is now a close family friend, and mustapha, a young migrant from egypt, has become their foster son. And ive heard theyre both amazing cooks. This one, we have carrots, green beans and the shrimps. And little shrimps. The little yeah, fried already. Mm, oh, delicious. Oh, i cant wait. Very exciting. Tonight theyre making a fusion of african dishes. This one is called nigerian fried rice. Served with spicy chicken and plantain, a type of banana fried in coconut oil. Enjoy. I can see that nigerian and italian hospitality have a lot in common. Wonderful. Thats delicious. Emmanuelle and mimo took mustapha under their wing shortly after he arrived in sicily six years ago. He was only 16 when he left his family to make the dangerous journey across the mediterranean. How did they arrive . With a small boat in the main beach of catania. Mmhmm. Which is called playa. It was the 10th Of August in 2013. How big was the boat . The boats hit a sandbar . Yes. They started walking. Just in front of the shore. It was terrible. They couldnt swim. This is the thing so many people imagine that people leave their countries to come and take advantage when, in fact, theyre just coming because they live in fear. Yeah. Theyre incredibly poor. They need somewhere safe. Yes, they need somewhere safe, and they want to work hard. Yeah. To have a good life. Yeah. So when people say that we are good because we help him, but i always say thats not true because they are helping us in finding a reason to give a sense to these moments, you know, the world is living. So we have to thank them. The story of immigration seems to have changed very little over the years. If one of its most beautiful consequences is the imprint it leaves on the cuisine. The spices that are part of all this from egypt have been in italy for centuries. Yeah. Its what created italian food. Its why italian food in sicily is completely different than the italian food in fee monte or in rome. Well, i really want to thank you so much. Youre pretty great parents. Thats all i can say. Even if from time to time we quarrel. Throughout history, Sicilians Have shared the point of their generous land with newcomers, evolving the culture and creating new culinary traditions. Cheers, cheers. Every new arrival brings change and the opportunity for regeneration and renewal. But one thing that wont change here is that at the home of a cumpari, the door is always open, and you are always welcome to join the feast. So here we are in milan, the fashion and industrial powerhouse of italy. Ive only been to milan a few times and always in passing. Ive never stayed here long enough to really get a sense of it. The first thing that strikes you about milan is its dynamism. No Wonder Espresso was invented here. I think i might need a few of these just to keep up with the rhythm of the city. But do the