But im here to discover how its the food of ordinary romans that has conquered our hearts. But im going to warn you. If youre on a low carb diet, beware. Youre going to see a lot of pasta in this show. I mean, like, a lot of it. A lot. Im sorry. Ive been visiting rome for decades. Its beauty and history still leave me breathless. But sometimes its difficult to find a good meal if you dont know where to look. Rome is situated in a region sometimes overlooked in favor of its grander gastronomic neighbors like tuscany and umbria. But lazio has fed rome for centuries and every part of the sheep and pigs raised here is put to use in kitchens across the city to make deeply flavorsome food. To start my journey, im catching up with My Old Friend claudia. Shes lived here virtually her whole life. And her Cardinal Rule for good food is, when in rome, eat as the romans do. Are you okay . Im so happy to see you. It was a long time. It was a long time. Somehow almost 30 years has slipped by since we first became friends when we worked on a movie here together. I think that you came last time the very first time was like 95. No, i think 93 because it was really . I didnt know i was that old. I know, me neither. Lets not mention it. Claudia wants to take me for a classic roman pasta lunch. But with an hour to kill, we decide to get a coffee and reminisce. Its a real institution. But thats where we went a long time ago. Yeah, yeah. We were there every evening you know . Back in the 90s, we used to hang out in a great cafe in a grimy part of town very much on the wrong side of the river. And here we are. And i was pleased to hear its still going strong. You remember . Yes, i do. I do. Whats there . The picture you gave them in 93. It is exactly in the same place. I think nothing changed in this place. No, it hasnt changed. A little espresso would be just enough to whet our appetites before we go to lunch. Or so i thought. I know, i know. Whats that . Whos joining us . These are roman breakfast with a 2,000yearold roman history. You cannot resist one of these. In the middleages, they were one of the few sweet things the church allowed you to eat during lent. It doesnt seem very saintly to me. Is it like a brioche . Yeah, and its even healthier compared to this. This is fried, its a sort of doughnut with egg cream. The italians dont eat breakfast like The Americans or the dutch eat breakfast because they dont do eggs and bacon and its as something sweet. Yeah. Si, yeah. Nice to see you again. Ciao. As we staggered off our breakfast and headed through town, i noticed the area was much busier and hipper than years ago. This was the poor quarters. You see the buildings as nice as they are are very small. Right. And then, of course, as it happens, you know, the old quarters got very trendy and everybody wanted to live here. And they become more gentrified. Yeah. Yeah. The city may be changing, but one thing thats as constant as the ancient landmarks is how much people in rome love their pasta. Fourstar dishes in particular have become an emblem of the city. And claudia is taking me to find out more at a place she says the is pantheon of pasta. The restaurant is fully booked. But we dont care. We dont care. Ciao. Cla claudia. Tell me some more about pasta in rome. Pasta in rome is like, you eat it every day. I mean, you dont live without pasta. And everybody has its own recipe and of course its the best ever and yours is nothing compared to mine. Its true. It does become very territorial, doesnt it . Yeah. Romans revere what they call the four pastas. Nice to see you. Thank you for having me. Simple but iconic dishes of staggering deliciousness. They are creamy pasta made with mainly sheep cheese and pepper. An ancient dish which has added pork. Its luxurious cousin, carbonara, which is elevated with egg yolks, and todays dish, made with tomatoes and this roman favorite, fatty pork cheek. Theyre a base for a lot of different dishes in rome. We would normally use pancetta, but the taste is totally different. Pancetta, no, no. Yes, terrible, yes. Thank you. Thank you so much. Very good. Pasta is delicious. Delicious. The sauce is actually quite light, which is nice. And really delicate. Yeah, yeah, it is. No, no. I kept a place in my stomach for this. Oh, because we didnt eat the my god. No. Across the city, every single day, romans eat pasta that has ancient bonds to their surrounding countryside. Now, its hard to imagine, but this iconic food was once at risk of being banned in italy. Garnier infuses vitamin c in the new Garnier Brightening serum cream to reveal glowing skin. The efficacy of a vitamin c serum, the moisture of a cream, and an spf 30. 3 products in 1 for bright, glowing skin. 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Hey. Hey. Plus the players of my squad. Hey. Whats up . Then finally my whole livestream. Boom 12 months of 5 wireless. Visible, as little as 25 a month or 5 a month when you bring a friend. Powered by verizon. Wireless that gets better with friends. You cant claim that as a dependent because its inanimate people ask me what sort of person should become a celebrity accountant. And, i tell them, nobody should. Hey, buddy. Whats the damage . I bought it the waterfall . Nope a new volkswagen. A volkswagen . i think were having a breakthrough here welcome to caesars palace. Thank you. Antibacterial or moisturizing body wash . Definitely moisturizer antibacterial can i have both . New dove care protect body wash eliminates 99 of bacteria and moisturizes for hours two for one can i keep it . New dove care protect, zero compromise sitting at the big, warm carbohydrate loaded heart of italian cuisine is pasta. And fittingly for the nations capital, rome is obsessed with this stuff. Ive been promised the best carbonara in the city. And ive been told to come to the Working Class back streets and ask for the don. Tell me what you do. Im passionate for popular food, and for a time, i make a show where i play vinyl music like a dj. As a dj, yeah. But at the same time, i cook pasta as a grandma. Daniel is a chef, historian and dj who cooks italian food. His stage name is don pasta. Its really great. Don pasta has promised me the greatest dish of spaghetti Car Carbonara ive ever tasted. And on the way he tells me why pasta matters so much to him. I realize italian food is popular food. Italian food is reticent of the normal people or Working Class people that eat well because the Working Class people create the roots of the italian food. Yes. Today we may think as a bowl of pasta as the ultimate comfort food, but theres a distinctively uncomfortable history of italians fighting oppression through pasta. In the early 1930s, mussolini and his fascists imposed import bans on various foreign goods. This led to food shortages, malnutrition and a lack of wheat, which raised the prospect of italian tables with no pasta. In typical style, rather than lifting the import bans, mussolini tried to convince italians that eating pasta would make them weak, lazy and even sexually impotent and that a High Protein Diet would make them more productive and warlike. The campaign was clearly not a success. When the fascists arrived, a big part of italians was with mussolini, but 30 , 40 is against mussolini. In fact, pasta actually became a powerful symbol of the resistance against his fascist regime. Armed with their guns and sheets of pasta, many of the partisans who stood up to mussolini lived in these very streets. And the great Axis Rail Yards from which troops and supplies are forwarded to Southern Italy are blasted by during world war ii, this area bore the brunt of allied bombings that aimed to disrupt the nearby rail hub. Tragically over 1,000 people were killed. This is in essence like a monument. Yeah. You can see the effects of the war. People dead, the family dead. And all this area is bombed. This particular square was home to a hugely popular local trattoria before the war. The owners wife and all but one of their children died when the building was hit during the bombing. After the war, the local community raised funds for the surviving father and son to reopen the restaurant again. The boys started work here aged just 8. And amazingly, hes still here today. Its the story of roman food. Beautiful. Aldo now runs the restaurant alongside his daughter rosanna. People come from across the city, and apparently further afield, to enjoy the comfort of aldos family food. So tell me about carbonara. Carbonara is a roman dish, but we dont know when it was invented, right . One story id always heard is that carbonar came about when the american soldiers in rome during the war started missing their bacon and eggs back home and wanted them added to spaghetti. Aldo, however, has his own theory. It seems some things are destined to remain roman myths. What everyone can agree on is that the carbonara here is incredible. Are you ready . I know, i know. You have basically four ingredients pasta, eggs, the guancaile and cheese. Thats it. But when i try it at home, its never this good. My mother does that, too. You can just die now. When i taste pasta like this, i understand why it remains so important to the city. Rome may be the seat of power and religion, but its overwhelmingly a Working Class town. This is simple food thats been elevated over centuries by people making the best of what little they had available. Theyre rightly proud that their humble food has come to define humble food has come to define italy to the entire world. Are you managing your diabetes. Using fingersticks . With the new freestyle Libre 2 System, a continuous glucose monitor, you can check your glucose with a painless, onesecond scan. And now with optional alarms, you can choose to be notified if you go too high or too low. And for those who qualify, the freestyle Libre 2 System is now covered by medicare. Ask your doctor for a prescription. You can do it without fingersticks. Learn more at freestyle libre 2 dot u. S. With so many nourishing shades, a color change is easy. Nutrisse has 77. From our darkest blacks, to our lightest blondes. It nourishes while it colors. Plus avocado, olive and shea. Change a little, or a lot. Nutrisse. Nourished hair. Better color. By garnier, naturally will there be an ev for me . What about me . One for me . You mean us . What about me . And me . How about us . Yeah, how about us . 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Gentrification is moving in on this neighborhood and food is on the front line. The neighborhood was born during roman empire. Centocelles roman name, its 100 jail in english. 100 jails . Jails, yeah, exactly. There may never have actually been 100 jails here, but what this area does have is three new Subway Stations all in close proximity. This thing changed the game. A lot of people came here to try to invest a bit. Yeah. Is this where were going . Yeah. Lets go in and see what hes got. The city has long had a rough reputation. Thats changing fast, though. And one place thats seen by some at ground zero for the transformation of the neighborhood is a deli. Vincenzo opened this place well before the metro arrived. He wanted to rehabilitate the surrounding lazio regions He Reputation for food and bring the best of the countryside back for his neighbors to enjoy at fair prices. Can i taste some . Ah, si Pecorino Cheese is made from sheeps milk and rome is famous for it. Histor historically, the animals were raised all around lazio as an alternative to crops. Vincenzo searches in some unlikely places for cheese that also helps his community. What does that mean . In the jail. In the jail. Jail, yeah. Oh, okay. Only in italy would an ancient Cheese Recipe be saved by prisoners. Really . Right. Right. Yeah. Thats delicious. As well as sheeps milk cheese, pork finds its way into almost every dish ive had in rome. Historically, pigs were raised all around the city, because they need less space than other animals. To me, vincenzo is dog something amazing. Now people come here from around the city to this once overlooked suburb. But over the past few years, another 50 to 60 food places have opened up nearby. Romans are renowned for their stubborn resistance to change. I guess its whats kept the city standing for centuries. But masimiliano wants to show me another cafe in the area, one of many that has opened in recent years. I wasnt fully prepared for what we found. Its hard to imagine, but a few months ago, this place was a thriving cafe and book shop calcall ed the electric sheep. On the night of april 25, 2019, her cafe was fire bombed. She set about rebuilding her business, but shockingly, the night before she was due to reopen, the attackers struck again. Three local businesses have now been attacked like this here, including a pizza place and this jazz bar. The police still havent found whos responsible. Because she hosted Community Events at the cafe, including antifascist talks, suspicion has fallen on the far right. But others here blame local criminals protecting their old turf or even antigen try if i case campaigners. Is this happening in other parts of rome, too . No. When change happens, romans resist. But whoever did this has made it dangerous to sell food. It seems brutal to attack restaurants and cafes in this city that is united in its love city that is united in its love of eating together. Now with vitamin c micelles work like a magnet. In one swipe gently cleanse, by garnier, naturally. Gently cleanse, if youre 55 and up, tmobile has plans built just for you. Get 2 unlimited lines for only 70. And now get netflix on us with your plan. And this rate is fixed, youll pay exactly 70 total. This month and every month. Plus, switch today and get a free smartphone for each line. The best value and awardwinning customer service. Only at tmobile. Who takes care of yourself. So why wait to screen for colon cancer . Because when caught in early stages, its more treatable. Im cologuard. Im noninvasive and detect altered dna in your stool to find 92 of Colon Cancers even in early stages. Tell me more. Its for people 45 plus at average risk for colon cancer, not high risk. False positive and negative results may occur. Ask your prescriber or an online prescriber if cologuard is right for you. Ill do it. Good plan. Tucked in a curve of the river tiber is testaccio, once known as the belly of rome. Home to the old slaughterhouse that supplied 19th and 20th century romans with meat. So tell me about this place. This is the retired slaughterhouse. And for about 100 years until the 1970s its where most large roman animals were slaughtered basically from lambs all the way up through steer. This foursquare mile site will be redeveloped into a cultural area, but for now signs of its former life are everywhere. And where is the oh, yeah, the tracks for the carcasses, yeah. Katey parla is a reknown food writer who swapped new jersey for rome almost 20 years ago. You have the veal here oh. Skinning happened there. Its an organized place with so many pavilions covering a vast area and really influencing the types of foods that would be eaten just across the street at the late 19th and early 20th century. In butchery, the animal is quartered and those cuts went straight up to the upper and middle class kitchens. Everything thats leftover, the blood, brains and intestines was called the quinto quarto, the fifth quarter. And those were left to the poor. Some workers were even paid with it instead of money, so, they had little choice but to make the best of it. One restaurant keeping these historic flavors alive and taking them into the 20th century is santo palato. If you know how to cook offal, you can turn the poorest cuts into the richest of dishes. Youre hungry, right . I havent eaten in an hour. And katey wants me to meet a grow young chef with a growing reputation for doing Amazing Things with innards. Shes going to make a fritatta for us and its topped with chicken innards. So everything we focus on here in the restaurant is offal. Yes. Yes, good. One egg per person, okay. Yes. Yeah. Yeah. Throughout the day oh, yeah. Have it for breakfast, lunch, dinner. Yeah. I like it in a sandwich. Yes, in a sandwich. Thats what inused to take when i was a kid in school. Yes. The chef gave up Medical School to pursue her dream of opening a restaurant. Oh, yes. The stomach, the heart and the liver. In rome, you find ricotta and chicken organs, but separately. But separate. But shes combined them. Oh, wow. Smell it. Oh, yeah. Dont forget about this bread. Oh, yeah, nice and hot, too. Yeah. Mmm. Thats great thank you. That is great. This is really special. Demonstration of what sarah does really well, which is taking roman classic flavors and combining them in a way thats new but not revolutionary or extra contemporary. They just make sense in the cuisine today. Sara gets her scalpel into some beef art and we take a seat in the dining room. Whats that . Is a really unusual texture, too, isnt it . Oh, yeah, so, the breakdown of the offal are, you have heart, liver, stomach, tongue, brains, sweet breads, intestines. Snout. The whole head, really. The whole head. If you think about it. Yeah. If pasta is the first pillar of roman food, the astonishing use of offal is definitely the second. Somehow poor romans turned these unpromising cuts into sheer culinary poetry. Yes. Great. I love oxtail. Im so into it. So tasty. Thats really good. And this is definitely a more carnivorous city than a fish city. Without question. Even though were 15 miles from the sea i know. That was really, really far in pre1970s standards before ice and refrigeration became more common. Yeah, yeah. So, this is that Honeycomb Tripe with all those really beautiful pockets, lots of nice Stomach Geometry going on. Ive never heard it described as Stomach Geometry. That makes it sound much, much more palatable. Its boiled multiple times and cleaned many times. Then done with tomato and mint. So, this is really the only way you find tripe. Go to another place, florence included, and the tripe is prepared differently. Stewed stomach may not sound appealing, i know, but believe me, these are really tasty flavors. The roman poor didnt have much to work with, but against the odds they wound up making some of the very best food in the city. What can i say . Thanks a lot. Thank you so much, kate. Someday ill ask you a question that will change me forever. Time after time begins to play softly yes. Time after time continues to play softly. Start your someday today with 20 to 40 off all bridal. Hmmm. Where to go today . Today with 20 to la . Vegas . No, the desert. Lets listen to this. Louder. Take these guys . I mean, theres room. Maybe next time, fellas. Now were talking. Alright. Lets. Go. Visible is wireless that doesnt play games. No surprise fees, legit unlimited data for as little as 25 a month. And the best part, its powered by verizon. But it gets crazier. Bring a friend every month and get every month for 5. Which is why i brought them. Two 5amonths right here. Hey. Hey. Plus the players of my squad. Hey. Whats up . Then finally my whole livestream. Boom 12 months of 5 wireless. Visible, as little as 25 a month or 5 a month when you bring a friend. Powered by verizon. Wireless that gets better with friends. With so many nourishing shades, a color change is easy. Nutrisse has 77. From our darkest blacks, to our lightest blondes. It nourishes while it colors. Plus avocado, olive and shea. Change a little, or a lot. Nutrisse. Nourished hair. Better color. By garnier, naturally if you have postmenopausal osteoporosis and a high risk for fracture, now might not be the best time to ask yourself, are my bones strong . life is full of make or break moments. Thats why its so important to help reduce your risk of fracture with prolia®. Only prolia® is proven to help strengthen and protect bones from fracture with 1 shot every 6 months. Do not take prolia® if you have low blood calcium, are pregnant, are allergic to it, or take xgeva®. Serious allergic reactions like low blood pressure, trouble breathing, throat tightness, face, lip or tongue swelling, rash, itching or hives have happened. Tell your doctor about dental problems, as severe Jaw Bone Problems may happen. Or new or unusual pain in your hip, groin, or thigh, as unusual Thigh Bone Fractures have occurred. Speak to your doctor before stopping, skipping or delaying prolia®, as spine and other Bone Fractures have occurred. Prolia® can cause serious side effects, like low blood calcium, serious infections, which could need hospitalization, skin problems, and severe bone, joint, or muscle pain. Dont wait for a break, call your doctor today, and ask about prolia®. Thank you very much. Thank you, thank you. Were here in rome, and its the most wonderful time of the year. No, its not christmas. Its artichoke season. Right now, markets across the city are humming with the sound of people hacking away at romes favorite vegetable. So show me the artichokes. As ive been finding out with roman food, you sometimes have to dig a little to get to the good stuff. So this is where the once trimmed, they can be deep fried to make one of my alltime favorite roman foods, jewish fried artichokes. You know, my grandmother and my mother would make these. Ask anyone here and theyll tell you this weird looking vegetable is a definitive roman food. Thank you so much. Thank you, byebye. Ciao, ciao. But what i love is that under those rough outer leaves, it contains an entire history. A story of how societys outcasts can change the habits of an entire city. These picturesque ruins once contained the misery of romes jewish ghetto. From the 1500s onwards, the citys entire Jewish Community was locked in this walled area. Only allowed to leave to do menial jobs in the daytime before being locked in at night. Italia is in her 80s and has lived here her whole life. When the nazis seized rome in october 1943, the ghetto was a sitting target. And its 1,204 residents were sent to the gas chambers. Italia was one of just a handful who escaped when her uncle hid her outside the city. For the few who survived, food became a vital link back to their past. The jews of rome had lived in poverty for centuries and were forced to rely on the cheapest of ingredients. Using typical roman inventiveness, the jews transformed unloved ingredients like anchovies, eggplants and artichokes into dishes that entire city would eventually take to its heart. Alongside pasta and offal, the influence of Jewish Cooking is the third pillar of roman cuisine today. Italia set up a restaurant serving the best jewish food in the ghetto. In this kitchen, italia and her crack team raise the humble artichoke into food for the ages. Okay, so this is that. That was done yesterday. Cooked in the oil and then refrigerated. Right. So spreading out the leaves. Theyre cooked, precooked. Look at how beautiful that is. Thats the best one ive had. That is delicious. Its so addictive, its like eating candy. You just cant stop, its so crispy. That people love, yeah. This dish tells a story. It has survived the darkest of times. And links us to a past that was almost wiped out. To me, its a type of Historical Monument in italian cooking, now beloved by everyone and proudly embraced by the entire city. Now with vitamin c micelles work like a magnet. In one swipe gently cleanse, remove makeup, and brighten. New micellar water with vitamin c. By garnier, naturally. You can try to predict the future or you can create it. New micellar watwere driving it. Everywhere. We emit optimism, not exhaust. We plug in our vehicles as naturally as we charge our phones. We. We are generation e. We want smart. Clean. And safe. To also be fun, easy and powerful ultium a battery that charges fast. Runs long. It fits everyone. Nobody will be left out. And that, changes everything. 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The moment you sponsor a job on indeed you get a short list of quality candidates from our resume database. Claim your Seventy Five Dollar credit, when you post your first job at indeed. Com home. Its my last night in rome. During my time here ive learned that above all else, food in italy is about who you are and where youre from. But where does that leave you if youre an outsider . Ive come to bistro 64, a restaurant that has won a michelin star for serving up some of the best italian food in the city. The surprising thing is that the chef is an out of towner. And no, hes not from naples. Or even milan. Hes from japan. Bona sera. Bona sera. Stanley. Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you. Kotura noda was lured her by his obsession with italian cuisine. Nodas food has won praise for its creativity. But tonight hes making one of the classics. One of the more famous classics. Literally cheese and pepper. There are just three main ingredients. But it takes great skill to make this roman perfectly. Of course, another Italian Kitchen secret. Could t could take awhile. I know you may be thinking this is ludicrously simple food. But believe me, its extraordinary. And dont just take my word for it. Wheres karen . Karen . Come here. Okay. This is karen, who works with us. One of the producers. Shes from rome. So you tell us what you think, karen. Okay. All right, go ahead. No, no pressure, no pressure. Okay. Hes not nervous at all. He doesnt care about our opinion. Its divine. Yes. Its so good. Its perfectly creamy. Its not too intense. Its not overloaded with flavor. Yeah. The best pepper. He really respects, you know, how it would be cooked in a family, yeah. Theres always a secret. Theres always a secret, yes. When it comes to food, romans know what they like, and like what they know. Beyond his masterful take on the classics, nodas menu is full from incredible innovations. From sweet breads with heart, to purple potato cream with plum gelato. I was curious how the city had taken to his creations. The downside of rome, being so steeped in history, is sometimes great things are resisted because theyre new and not what people are missed to. Missing food this good is a real shame. Im sorry. But heres the thing. The one thing romans cant resist is a good meal. And im hopeful that soon, nodas food will be another culinary landmark in this eternal city. Its hard to believe that just a few months ago, the first wave of covid19 had emptied the streets of naples and italy was in lockdown. Thankfully, ive arrived during a brief moment of normality. Restaurants are open and masks are not required outside. And well be sticking to the local rules. Napoli is a truly thrilling city. The second you arrive, youre engulfed by a magnificent chaos. And theres no point in fighting it. People here do things their own way. 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