If there’s one celebrity to turn to when you need cheering up, it’s got to be Ainsley Harriott. It’s a grey and stressful Monday morning, during the November lockdown, when I speak to the 63-year-old TV chef on the phone. But he greets me with the sort of exuberant singing you can’t help but smile at (first it’s a rendition of Ray Charles’ Georgia On My Mind he treats me to, then it’s Midnight Train To Georgia by Gladys Knight & The Pips). I joke we need to find a song about “Ainsley” now and the Londoner – who’s been on our screens for more than three decades now – excitedly retorts: “Craig David mentions me in his new track!”