The morning of March 27, 1884 was cold but invigorating. Naval surgeon George W. Woods, a crewmember of the American warship, the U.S.S. Juniata, and a guest of the American ambassador to Korea, had arrived in Seoul the previous night with a couple other officers from the ship. Woods woke up to the smell of pine smoke and the sound of a servant stoking the fire in the “ondol” (underfloor heating system). Unlike his peers - who were still suffering from their trek - Woods was anxious to explore the city. In a letter home he wrote: