Well, like clockwork. Now we can measure the amount of oxygen in the blood, and also read the tissue for dinner. Yes, you wrote that the temperature is 39 people. Yes, yes, well, Something Like this, yes, then tissues that will quickly decompose and selfdestruct tissues that will change color or fabrics that do not require washing, they are selfcleaning. Well, there are a lot of things being invented. And as a rule, many trends begin with fabrics, and the designer is already picking up these technologies. I heard that technologies for fabrics that change their color have already been actively introduced. E depending on the presence or absence of sunlight. There are such yes already, yes, and you are planning to use something similar in your collections, risky. History as soon as it becomes available while all new technology is very expensive. For example, we wanted to use, a in our second line, b dreamsy fabrics, a dyed with fruit and vegetable peels, but these fabrics are four times more expensive than the rest. That is, it will greatly affect the cost of the product and our client is not yet ready to buy a dress four times more expensive, because it is dyed with potato peelings , brands and stores with allwhite clothes will still appear from the trends. That is, these are brands that will completely abandon decoration, yes , chemical effects on fabrics, and white ones isnt that a dye . By itself, no, but snow white dye. But dairy baked milk is the natural color of the fabric. And what do you like most, what is closer to you from these new technologies that will appear in the near future, what are you looking at . Now, well, i certainly like that we recycle garbage into fabrics that can be worn. Eh, there are already a lot of these fabrics on the market, and we use them ourselves, that is, by buying these fabrics and creating clothes from them. I understand that i am useful. I i support cleanup of the ocean as well and my customers buy these clothes will feel that they benefit in addition to getting a beautiful thing. And who is producing these fabrics now . These are some factories. Yes, many companies. This is this trend. Stop sustainability. Hes already practically. And every fabric manufacturer has it, but so far there are a lot of rylov and here are small rails. By the way, we also used a new technology these are heaters built into the jacket. But, unfortunately, our customers for some reason are not very appreciate this idea. We ourselves were surprised, because we have, uh, a northern Northern City and a warm jacket, of course, can be very useful, but for some reason it is not popular with us people, they didnt want to charge some kind of battery to wear somewhere in the outlet inserting a jacket was not appreciated. Well , it seems to me that its a matter of time, because about cars, too, they used to say about cars that why charge a car through an outlet. These sockets. It is necessary to look somewhere for anything now will give birth. All over the city charging for electric electric cars, so i think its a matter of time about all new ideas need time. Yes, maybe its really worth it, to start using it and show someone that its convenient, but the battery is probably heavy, well, like an additional charger for a phone. Well, how many actions are there . I dont know 100g. Maybe oh i would probably be your first user with great pleasure. I even bought batteries for myself this winter to charge the phone, which is still heating up, that is, to warm your hands uhhuh when in the winter, lets say you get into the car, and it has not yet warmed up, and you take this battery, turn it on, about which you charge your phones with it. Hes still heating up. They can warm their hands, great. I also use japanese patches. Here you need to hold out on the street long enough. I just wrap them around my clothes, thats all. Im in a thermos. Yes, these patches are still for shoes. The same liners that heat up. And there are now releasing such heated socks and gloves with heating is, i have not heard. Yes, now, after all, the epoch that is called fast food, when people buy things quickly get rid of them. We love to clear our wardrobe of some unnecessary things to buy new ones, but at the same time there is still a certain vintage and we know that there are a lot of dresses that were made decades ago so far. People buy them, wear them and they are in demand and look great today, what is needed for your clothes to make your dress go down in history decades later, maybe some kind of exhibition of costumes from the early 2000s with characteristic things. Well, i think, firstly, it should be some kind of extreme innovative idea, for example, as a reason. Yep, an invention. Well, new then, yes, well, how was the black square in its time or what . And Christian Dior with his dresses of happiness, that is, they went down in history now you will not surprise anyone with such a dress, but in due time the right moment. They were, uh, in the right place at the shows. Thats very beautiful. It still looks. Yes, secondly, i think that a is dress carrying some additional meaning. A and. Thirdly, i think, just unique very beautiful dresses belonging to some of the best collections of designers can. Well, here are those that delight the eye through time, amaze with interesting ideas in working with texture or with construction or light or a dress dedicated to a specific task. For example, we created a dress, and dedicated to may plisetskaya and maria Marina Alexandrova starred in it, and we embodied a white and black swan in one dress; the dress was created from a thousand, handpainted empire. Here it was dedicated to my plisetskaya and created in a unique way. For 2 months we have been creating , painting each peru, separately processing each pen, which was drawn by the artist. That is, it is impressive, it is interesting to consider. And as for the fast fashion era, its over, people dont want to, but sweep away all the choices. They want to buy. Things that will not be worn for years, so the quality of the thing comes to the fore, and the design goes a little, the second thing should be utilitarian suitable for different situations. Well, for example, here is a large black mens jacket, which must be of very high quality a without a Design Elements so that it is always relevant and after 3 years and after 5 years. It can be completed to put on a dress or put on with jeans or with the same trousers. Here is a utility item. Its also a new time in the sense that were very careful about what we throw away, meaning many brands are now offering to take back their stuff. And it also starts. Uh, the irisale market is developing very actively. Now we will see the emergence of a large number of sites that will sell already worn clothes and also there will be more companies that will give clothes for rent. This is all very big, but a new trend. And for some reason it seemed to me that at some point we had a lot of companies that rent clothes, especially beautiful couture dresses that not everyone can afford to buy for the sake of one single outlet. And here such a concept is very convenient. I rented it and returned it back, but for some reason i didnt use it popular very many closed companies in the evening. Why because the pandemic happened . There was simply nowhere to go and , apparently, the company could not stand this waiting period. And, secondly, yes, this is such a very powerful trend. But people still have to get used to and react. And this transition process will take some time alyona thank you very much for taking the time to come to us. We will closely follow your creativity and the integration of all fashionable and modern technologies in your collection. But im with you friends, i say goodbye and i want to remind you that the paws podcast is not bast, the sheets also strive to become part of the cultural. Come watch us on the website of channel one see you soon. This podcast is a must read. Im aglaya for batnikova. Director, writer. Today i am visiting. Kirill shamanov, writer , art critic, artist, we will talk about William Burrows and his junk novel. Hello cyril, hello. This 60 years old guy from an educated and fairly wealthy family studied at harvard studied medicine in europe and then i chose this path. Uh, lets just say to sink to the bottom and go through, in general , addiction to illegal drugs, and he describes this experience in his books and quite unexpectedly becomes classics of american literature. One of the leaders of the beatnik movement, among which is the holding of jack kiruak, and in general, what can we say about berouz, whether he became a pioneer, but because we know that irwin welsh, er. From transporting Hunter Thompson to las vegas, all they can say has been following in his footsteps. Well, ah, for american literature, probably yes, but we also know there is russian literature, English Literature in russian literature, we know bulgakovs morphine, uh, in English Literature. This is a de quincey novel. Uh, another 1900 800 there are some tenth years of uh, that is, yes, if we say, like this chronologically, as it were, who was the first in this whole autofiction. Uh, such is the literature about addiction, uh, then, probably, this is still a devenation, but speaking of the beatnik generation , speaking of bureaucracy, and his books and his style descriptions, then, of course, for modern literature for modern society. He probably really somehow managed to give it. Yes, as it were, it became clear there, well, a huge mass of people, there his popularity testifies to this. And the writers of the beatniks, they generally, well, lets say, how they differ. That is why they are called beatniks. Lets talk a little about this cultural context. Well, we are talking about the end of the forties, the very beginning of the fifties. Uh, this generation is american postwar. That is, it is the rise of the american economy. At the same time, in general, the rather poor state of american culture. Eh, at that moment there was a need. Uh, somehow make her dominant in the world. There buying american you buy the best american culture. They are many. These are the directions of many artists during the war, modern ones were taken out and they created such a, as it were, plast e, literary including hmm here, uh, that is, we can talk about it as in such a Political Technology project, but as in any project with culture, something gets in the way and talented always and really, as if here are a few authors for me. Why do we say all these . So jan is fiction . Lets call it literature. Why is it written primarily in the first person . This experience, it must be lived, as it were, and it is interesting precisely as an inner experience, first of all. It seems to me so, and precisely due to the fact that this inner experience is in the form of such a stepbystep diary of some often poorly structured text. But how would there always is. Here, as it were, the beginning, how a person began. There is some kind of abstract psychedelic period of this consumption of chaos and the subsequent, as it were, what came of it all. That is, well, it usually turns out that its bad when, as a rule , the grave leaves, but in some cases, we suddenly come across the fact that such an addiction managed to somehow rethink this experience and even made some kind of novel you have experience, you have two books written about similar experiences. Tell me what gave you this rethinking, when you went through literature. I went to study all these twelvestep programs, and there is a rather significant layer there, these are diaries, uh, feelings there, uh. Well, its an inventory of memory, an inventory of the psyche. There are blocks of their own. That is, you simply remember some people in situations that hurt you there or no longer hurt you. Which one was delivered to you and describe them in detail according to certain methods in order to understand. In general, someone in this situation did something wrong, what is the situation and when did you you have been studying for years, you have such a habit, as if not well, through yes, through some written ones. Yes, through written analytics, to make some decisions , that is, well, then i noticed that some characters, here, whom i describe, i remember or situations, but they are so interesting that there is no way to write them in these boring tables, that something is needed there then more literature. Why do you need a story, at least you need a story . Years, and it unexpectedly even became some kind of small bestseller, but lets get back to birouz, and bureauuz began writing after he got out of addiction. Yes, that is, he having gone through this yes review of his experience. It turns out formed. E yourself as a person. We can say that, we can say that, but we can talk about junk romance. We are talking, just now i directly suspect that in this revision, that is, e , he did not stop being addicted and wrote a junk novel, and he began to work with his addiction and as a result through as a result wrote. Yes, this novel, and in which he is clearly expressed there, he has his thoughts, his own experiences, clearly there. Well , uh, put it on paper, and what is this novel about . That is, uh, lets tell a little about all these autofiction novels about addiction, but they are to a certain extent, maybe to a major extent. In fact , his freedom and the loneliness of a person. I mean, about hmm, thats about, uh, addiction. Yes , there are all these adventures, but uh, that is, this is what we say in american life. Yes, there are all these waves, but they are actually pretty, yes, like ours. Eh, my beloved pale one sings all my stories, in principle, are similar, that is, uh, all these novels, they really are. Well, theres some man hes addicted to. Hes the one there. Well, there is more or less, but this moment of what he understands. Its that hes addicted. There, he feels his own, as it were, this servile one, as if in front of some kind of drug of life. Yes, that is. And thats what it was. Uh, analysis, yes, that is , lay out on paper, as he tries with this somehow consistently disassemble, because drug addicts are some kind of dependent people. They are often unable to think three sentences in a row in one pipeline. Hes got to write down, that is, yes, that is, its literal. Here it collects the letter. Eh, brains like that, yes, that is, to work with all of these addictions. Here are the texts of the letter this is one of the most powerful practices, these are these analyzes and so on. And it seems to you that life is a birch, that it is tragic, because , for example, i see that he is incredible, lucky in the first place, despite his abuse. He even died before the age of 83. This heart attack, which was rather unexpected , even experienced by his son, and then he never went to prison. Although in america those years. Well, what is actually in the books . Yes, it is persecuted, they were all sitting in prison, well, birch hut. Prisons ah and the most interesting thing is that he killed his wife. That is , it was accidental through negligence, but how to see whether it was accidental or not, because he had a quarrel with her in front of friends. She humiliated him by saying that he was a bad hunter. He does not know how to shoot, and he decided to prove that he knows how to shoot. That is, he killed his own wife, but uh, thanks to his rich family, oh, which i already mentioned, he managed to escape. Uh, punishment and perhaps morally he experienced, this is because he said that this is an experience and made writing out of it or what, he began to write precisely after this event that he experienced, but nevertheless. It can be said that man, uh, carried almost no responsibility and even his literary experience. And now he becomes a classic and becomes famous. That is, even at six. That year, a Massachusetts Court s, uh, found that his book naked lunch was a work of literature, and not something obscene at all, because the book was banned at one time, uh, but at the trial it was acquitted for it was entered s uh, norman mailer. Aylon, gisberg, john chardy. This is a beatnik writer. They acted in defense, in general, of their comrade. But you can also say a rival. You you understand that literature does not exist. Yes, such Close Friends are more like competition. Well, thats what they all said. I read the minutes of the court, everyone said that this is a unique piece of work, a unique artistic method. Oh, and american society. Lets put it this way , it cant do without e, this look without this language, which i introduced to beru, that is. In general, whether he is lucky or not, you know, here i am, as an artist, after all. Yes, that is, uh, i experimented a lot with different media. Yes, its called techniques. Art, that is, electronic modern art and some kind of theater and painting there, yes, and painting, whatever. And when i started writing lyrics. Thats actually, somehow i began to realize myself. How exactly is the lyricist . I understood such a moment that literature is, lets say, from the point of view of the creative media, yes, that is, from the point of view of the creative material, this is the only practically absolute freedom, as it were, a method. That is, according to the classics, firstly, it does not require money to create, there is only you and actually. Yes, nothing can happen at all. That is, i can now go climb up from the ceiling on foot to bring a diamond from there, and thats all. Here, i have now painted a whole story in painting. Its all there in the movies. Its you yourself such operations. The place where you can do this is animation, but this is also a different effort , and this is this and this is the incredible availability of literature, the power of these images that you can create like this, and this, of course, cannot be compared from the point of view of creativity hmm freedom of creativity. Yes freedom of, uh, creative expression , of course, cannot be compared. So youre always doing some kind of 2d art. Or is there some kind of cinema that you always come across some interpretations, not restrictions, yes , restrictions on interpretations on distortions. And here you are directly in plain text. As if, so to speak, you cut it, somehow its all, thats what i thought. That is, this is a completely ideal format, and in this sense, as if the birches were lucky that he, as it were, immediately began to engage in this art. Only then, by the way, speaking already not only writers. He also painted pictures. Tell me about it. Well, yes, then heres five. Fifth sixties arose a huge galaxy of american artists and abstract expressionists. Its there jackson paul shortly. Well, there is a whole one. These are the authors who are now worth hundreds of millions of dollars there, and so on, they immediately began to build good money. I take a dream to draw such rather primitivist pictures, mostly on boards on some, and then, uh, all of her used to shoot them with holes. Yes they are all all shot. And by the way , in a paradoxical way, its as if they dont know this in moscow, but in st. Petersburg, fo