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Bad Seeds, Edinburgh: Ron Mackenna s eating in review

Edinburgh JUST about the time the steak bakes are popped from the oven, all mini-mouthfuls of golden puff pastry, caramelising juices and a very moist, deliciously meaty filling we’re suddenly listening to something called: As Serious As Your Life by Four Tet. No, me neither. But as this home delivery has come all the way from Edinburgh today it does not arrive alone. Not quite a cuddly toy but that brown envelope turns out to contain free wild flower seeds for the garden. Damn. And we had already sprinkled them over the lobster pappardelle. Only kidding. Then as the venison and guinea fowl terrine is being plated, fig chutney cunningly already folded into it, yes, we do spend ages checking the tubs before realising that’s where it’s hiding, and a simply wonderfully seasoned and textured tangy celeriac remoulade is coiled beside it: the playlist switches onto Nimble Girl by Hotel Eden.

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