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Add this and the ginger, garam masala and salt to the yoghurt and mix. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot (preferably cast-iron) with the bay leaves and fry the lamb neck pieces a few at a time until well browned on all sides. Add a little of the spiced yoghurt at a time and cook on a fairly high heat until the oil splits. Then add a little more spiced yoghurt and cook until it splits again, repeating until all the yoghurt is cooked in. Each time you add more, stir it again for the mixture to coagulate. Now reduce to a low heat, cover, and leave it to cook until it is very tender, at least an hour and a half, probably two hours. Turn the meat now and then to make sure it cooks evenly and is coated with the yoghurt stock. There will not be a great amount of cooking stock, and that’s as it should be, hence cooking on a very, very low heat, covered, for all that time. It’s all about the flavour and the richness of that delicious spicy yoghurt. 

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