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Which type of clam chowder is best? The debate is alive and well
For decades, New England partisans – and don t forget New Yorkers – have debated the matter, bickering over specifications like cream, tomatoes, salt pork and roux.
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Dick Varano, owner of Billy’s Chowder House in Wells, with a bowl of the restaurant’s New England style clam chowder. The debate about which style chowder is best rages on.
Gregory Rec/Staff Photographer
I still remember the worst clam chowder I’ve ever had. For years, I was a judge at Portland’s Great Chili and Chowder Challenge at the Holiday Inn by the Bay, an annual February fundraiser that, even during snowstorms, drew large crowds of chowder lovers eager to taste chowders of all kinds prepared by Portland chefs. We sampled a lot of wonderful steamy, creamy, classic New England chowders, but the one I remember best had the consistency of wallpaper paste. The “broth” was gluey and tasted more like the flour it had been thic
BUSHNELL ON BOOKS: ‘Chowder Rules!’ and ‘Jane Darrowfield and the Madwoman Next Door’
A fun book about all things clam chowder, and a new mystery from Barbara Ross
By Bill Bushnell
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CHOWDER RULES!: THE TRUE STORY OF AN EPIC FOOD FIGHT, by Anna Crowley Redding; Islandport Press, 2020; 32 pages, $17.95.
CHOWDER RULES!: THE TRUE STORY OF AN EPIC FOOD FIGHT
In all the Maine trivia books nobody mentions Maine politician Cleveland Sleeper, Jr. Why not? After all, he was a true hero, saving iconic New England clam chowder from the tomato. This obscure state legislator pulled off a culinary publicity stunt in 1939 that saved Maine’s well-deserved chowder reputation.
A chocolate chip cookie is almost always the product of some combination of butter, sugar, flour, eggs, baking powder and soda, and chocolate bits. How you get there, of course, is almost infinitely variable. And this year, I exhausted almost every avenue. I swirled butter in a pan until it was nutty and brown. I produced at least one distressingly rocklike baked good. I familiarized myself with deliciously crunchy demerara sugar. I tried to recreate the boulder-shaped Levain cookie folks line the block for in Manhattan. But mostly, I spent a lot of time banging sheet pans against the counter. That meant I was routinely disturbing everyone within earshot, but it was the only way to get the gorgeous ripples and cracker-thin texture of my fiancée Chloe’s favorite chocolate chip cookies.
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